I have never been happy with the warning lights on my instrument panel.
On a normal cloudy day they are hard to see and on a sunny day they are impossibe to see.
Yes, I know.......voltage drop thru the connectors, dust, higher wattage bulbs which causes heat problem, but the lights are still a joke.

So this is what I did - replace existing bulb with a LED - the LED is bright and no heat problems.


Standard bulb and holder on left, modified bulb holder on right.
I used the existing bulb holder, soldered in a 3volt bright white LED and put in a 1K6 ohm resistor to work on 12 volts.
You can adjust how bright you want the light to be by changing the resistor.



Spot the difference - the oil light and nuetral light have had the LED change, look over to the highbeam and headlight on the right hand side - these are the standard bulbs and can hardly be seen in my garage let alone in daylight.

NOTE: the LED is polarity sensitive - once you have put it in the holder, the holder can only go into your instrument panel one way (positive batt to positive side of the LED) - its not hard to follow the tracks on the back of the instrument panel and find the pos side.

Anyway, thought someone might be interested - hope this came thru ok - its the first time I have added photo's so I hope I didn't stuff it up.

Next mod - FZR1000 three spoke front wheel with CBR600 4pot calipers(120/60X17 is almost the same diameter as my current 130/70x16) and GSX 4.00 inch three spoke rear wheel with 150/60x17 (no swing arm mod required - fits easily) Both wheels painted black with polished rims (just like the real thing)
Then Mr Michelin can ..................................

Tony

Brilliant ( ha ha ) did the same thing on my ss . I dunno how many times i have nearly been taken out coz I had blinkers on but didnt turn

I like your light bulb sorting, but I also like the sound of your tyer sorting and wondered how the two rims compare as they are from different bikes? are they similar in looks and how do rear brakes fit up? the originals that is cause it looks like you might be on to a good thing

Hi Crusher,
Yes they are from different bikes but I think they will look fine. The fzr1000 front ($150nz)was white so I painted it black and polished the rim. 120/60x17 (Diablo)
The back is from GSXR250 Katana 4"x17 ($150nz) polished rim to match the front - takes a 150/60x17 (Diablo)



The front calipers are from Honda CBR900 Fireblade ($90nz - ex usa) and I made the brackets from steel. Got steel brakelines made locally.

This is the back fitted - sprocket is in line with front by using old sprocket cut down as a 5mm spacer - front and back within .5mm



Had to modify the back caliper bracket and add spacers and find bearings to fit but it was all fairly straight forward. Tyre to swing arm is around 30mm.


Back brake caliper bracket was cut and welded (alloy)

So, thats the back sorted now to the front - its snowing today so its a good time of year to sort a few things out.
Let me know if you need more info

PS: I see trademe has a gsx 4" rear for sale ...................

Hi Tony

Is that a voltage display you have on the lower right side of your instrument panel? If so what is the make?

Kind regards
Klaus

Those rims look very good.
Compliments!!!
How did you do to polish the outer side of the rims without any damage to the paint?
Ciao

thanks silverfox,Im impressed with how cheap it is to do it your way with the 17inch rims and dosnt look to hard to achieve the rest of the job. How dose bike handle and presume the original shafts fit both rims and yes we feel that snow up north in the bay so cheers Paul.

Hi Sliverfox,
Did you have any problem getting a WOF with the wheel change ?.
I´m still running on my last set of 160/60/16 -130/60/16 but will have to make a change soon

Ok, yes its a voltmeter, sorry don't know the brand. Its in a sealed resin box, red display and has a clip on the back (made to fit in a thin panel, I think it does 6-30v. A friend gave it to me, the switch to the right of the display turns on the clock and the voltage display.
Polishing, lots of hard work - wet and dry sandpaper - start with 600 grade, then 800,1200,2000 and clear coat. The rim had a natural edge to work to, so it was just a slow patient job.
WOF - I have had one with the new back - no problem - havn't been for one with the front but can't see any hassle.
Handling - have only tried with new rear and a 130/70x16 on the front - both Diablo's - I reckon it handles better than original, can't wait to try it with 17"s both ends

Tony

Hey SilverFox

I'm looking into a very affordable set of 1987 Katana wheels for my Paso but I need to figure out what I need to do about the brakes, axle and bearings before I buy.

So I was wondering if you used your original Paso rear brake rotor or did you use the Katana's instead? If you used the Katana's, did you use the Katana's caliper as well? If you could pass on any other info specific to the Katana 17" rear wheel upgrade - specifically any axle or bearing changes - did you use the Paso's or the Katana's, etc.
and if you used a spacer on the rear axle - if so, what measurement.

Thanks alot,

Ethan a.k.a. Fredskidoo

Hi Ethan, sorry, a bit late in replying, Dad died on Sunday and haven't looked at a computer all week.

Ummm, used existing bracket (I think there is a photo of it further back in this article - black one) and original caliper on Katana disc.
Bearings - use original axle and found bearings to fit wheel/axle no problem.
Spacer, yes made a spacer but sorry, can't remember size, just centred rim to the swing arm and worked out spacers based on what was required.
Sprocket allignment was achieved by using an old sprocket cut down to become a spacer behind the back sprocket (welded old sprocket centre to new sprocket)- 6mm?

Tony