Meter on the instrument panel
is a "Datel" "DC VOLT METER" "4.50-19.99V"
The switch to the side of it turns on the voltmeter and the clock - don't like that going all the time - excuse the pun.
Regulator
not sure of the brand - works well.
Just failed a Warrant of Fitness, no not on the wheels and brake calipers - on the headlight and taillights.
For those that don't know, all the power goes from the batt thru a 15amp fuse, off to the key (2 connectors) back from the key to the fuse panel(2 connectors) then ONE wire feeds the headlight(high and low), indicators,horn,tail and brake lights and the fuel pump - and thru multiple connectors.
This all adds up to a huge voltage drop and poor lights.
Solution - take the feed from the key (contacts in key must get dirty/worn) and instead of feeding power to the bike, use this feed to operate a relay - use the relay to feed power for the bike directly from the battery(fused of cause).
Now run an extra wire from the fuse panel (7.5amp fuse) and run it directly (no connectors) to the power wire at the headlight switch. All of a sudden you have a bright white headlight, the fuel pump doesn't slow down every time you put on the indicators and the taillight stops flashing - YES !
Passed warrant
