One thing at a time dude , or you will be chasing your tail . Get the clutch sorted and I bet you wont need to fiddle with the gear selector . If you lean the bike over ( Rest it on something) bugger all oil will escape , and the gasket comes in a tube

Already messed with the clutch. Tried it with different tolerances to the retaining ring with no difference. While the clutch pack was out I also messed with finding neutral. It's just as difficult so the clutch isn't the problem. Also bled it. All seems to be well on the clutch side of the bike.

Well, I think I figured it out...
When I put the bike into first the dog arm is dropping down behind the drum pin and getting stuck...


After I shift into first it should look like this...


When I try to shift from first into second it's tough but it will do it. Finding neutral has been the hard part. Once the dog tip drops down behind the pin it takes a lot of force to get it back up pushing it past neutral into second. Is the little tab that curves down from the dog arm supposed to rest on the case? Mine doesn't. As you can see in the photo it floats about 1/8" off the case.

Also - it looks like my case has been damaged by a broken chain in the past and welded back up!

Has anybody here ever done an adjustment on the dogarm? The two lower bolts allow you to rock the arm but I'm not sure about the screw with the locknut on it? I seem to have it working correctly but it would be nice to know before I seal everything all up.

Guys I'm in a similar boat with the clutch in my 900 so jumping in here too. My friction disks are down to 2.5 & 2.6mm so below spec and a fair bit below the new 3.00mm. There is some wear on the steel disks but not too bad, I think. Tossing up whether to spring for a full replacement kit from Stein-Dinse which would set me back a minimum of $300 AUD or locally there is a later factory clutch pack for sale for $120 AUD which would provide me with a set of new friction disks (I know the later steels are no good).

Just tossing up with the saving as to whether the new steel disks would make the extra difference for the cost. Of note there is very little material thickness left in the outer thich single sided friction disk but it is complete and not breaking up or flaking off.

Also anyone know what the difference is in the kits offered by Stein-Dinse regarding quality and price. They seem to have at least 3 difference kits.

Sorry to take so long to reply,if you havn't figured it out yet,the procedure is:


Slacken both of the bolts in the lower red circle
Rotate the selector plate to achieve equal distance of clearance between both selector pins and dogs
ie the clearances are equal when in correct position.
tighten one nut and check that gears select properly
tighten the other nut and check that the arm will lift up without either dog grabbing on the pins
make sure the bent tab doesnt foul on the pins.

This is the procedure for the earlier pantahs,but I have used it on my Paso with good results.

I would suggest that when the repair was done they didn't set the dog correctly on reassembly.

Fester, Give Phil at Road and Race a ring or alternatively get Ian Gowanlochs number off ebay and
try him , if they cant supply a clutch pack they will point you in the right direction without spending a fortune.

rgds J.

Thanks Jay, I got it figured out. Something is causing the gear selector to bind. It's not moving nearly as freely as it needs to and seems to be getting worse which means a motor / trans teardown. I'm affraid I don't have the tools or the money to pursue this right now so I'm talking with someone regarding purchasing it "as is" to either fix or part. It's too bad because the bike is really well sorted and has a lot of good components; new tires, progressive fork springs, updated wiring (power and coil relays), new Digiplex computer, european tail light, vented clutch cover, F1 cans (sounds amazing!) and because it's an 88 it's got the better ignition and gold valve covers. I even have the Weber working really well.

Ahdoman, There is a detent spring for neutral that is located under a cap that is just to the upper rear side of the drum pins and selector dog on the outside of the crankcase.It would be worth unscrewing and checking it is working properly.Also don't forget that the engine has to be spinning for clean selection of gears,you wont get good selection spinning by hand with a stationary motor.
Hope you don't have to part her !

rgds Jay.

I know about spinning the gearbox.

Is this the plug? If so, what should happen when I take it out and what comes out with it? Should the drum spin more freely?

Yep, thats the one, should be just a spring and detent ball in there. J.

Thanks for the suggestion Jay. Unfortunately it didn't help. I may have found another engine. We'll see what happens.