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dashboard/instruments panel rebuild http://ducatipaso.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1750 |
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Author: | lceriani [ Sat May 19, 2007 11:18 pm ] |
Post subject: | dashboard/instruments panel rebuild |
I am about to rebluid my dashboard and I have a lot of questions to ask because I don't know how it should be in original Paso. Let's have a look.... ![]() 1) First question: how is the panel (#42) fixed to the dashboard? Mine is not original and it's glued to piece #31... 2) 5 plastic clips should join transparent protection #31 to the dashboard, but in my case 3 of them are broken. Does anyone know a good solution to fix this problem? I thought about using a couple of screws or just some glue... :confused: 3) Silent blocks #36 are broken and original parts seems quite expensive in Ducati (6€ each...). I found similar parts, with the same thread but with a larger diameter and 3mm higher. Do you think they are ok? 4) Should the whole assemply #25 be sealed with transparent protection #31? Or should it let a little air-flow? 5) Do you know a way to clean the printed circuit #41? It seems a little rusty... Here is a photo: 1 is an example of a broken clip of protection #1 2 is the glue used to fix panel #42 I will post more questions when I will take some pictures. Many thanks to all!!! |
Author: | streetsurfer [ Sun May 20, 2007 3:28 am ] |
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1. My panel (black foam) was glued, from factory, to the dash base with what appears by color and feel to be weatherstrip adhesive, the yellow elephant snot (what it is often called here). 2. I noticed two or three of mine cracked at the tab that holds it on when I went to polish the haze on the inside off, and change broken isolators. I glued them with a dab of epoxy. 3. Not sure. I found the original duc isolators not expensive by me. 4. I had mine off to polish it inside and out as it had a water staining from condensation or something on the inside. I did not seal it. Just the glue on the few cracked tab ends. And it must not have been sealed from factory, because I don't recall having a difficult time removing it. 5. Try a rubber pencil eraser on the circuit board. 6. A tip while you have it out... Look for bulbs with a higher wattage for the turn indicators in the dash. It will make them a bit easier to see in daylight. Not much, but some. I went to a stereo repair shop after contacting Osram and showed them what came out and they fixed me up with brighter ones. |
Author: | Desmo_Demon [ Mon May 21, 2007 2:07 pm ] |
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Author: | streetsurfer [ Mon May 21, 2007 2:41 pm ] |
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Author: | persempre907 [ Mon May 21, 2007 6:39 pm ] |
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Author: | Finnpaso [ Wed May 23, 2007 10:06 am ] |
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That lense have been out of shops at least 5 years. 907 microfilm have number for that, but 750 dont have. ![]() |
Author: | persempre907 [ Wed May 23, 2007 8:49 pm ] |
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Author: | lceriani [ Thu May 24, 2007 6:00 pm ] |
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Author: | persempre907 [ Thu May 24, 2007 8:19 pm ] |
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I ordered a lens to Ducati Roma (Via Appia Nuova) because into their web system the lenses appeared still available. The price was quite cheap (it seems to me about 12 €.). Later, they told me the lenses were no longer available ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Ciao |
Author: | lceriani [ Thu May 24, 2007 9:39 pm ] |
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Thanks, Francesco. To all: here are a comparison between the original silent block (part #36, on the left) and the replacement I found (on the right). Here in Italy, the original part seems to cost 6€, the other one is made by ARIETE and costs about 3€, but it seems more tough, although it's higher. |
Author: | lceriani [ Thu May 24, 2007 9:51 pm ] |
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I have another question about the odometer cable. I can't find it on the parts catalogue and I don't know how it should be. Mine is here: It seems a unique block. I mean: all the parts in the picture seem blocked as one piece, and it turns as a uinque piece, too. I expected that only the knob should turn, while the external, threaded part should stay firm... :confused: Can you help me? |
Author: | Finnpaso [ Fri May 25, 2007 6:23 pm ] |
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Author: | ducapaso [ Sun May 27, 2007 7:24 am ] |
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Actually the knob should turn inside the thread... It's sold as an assembly, but if your is blocked by the rost, you can try to remove it an plug inside a solving oil, like "svitol" or "crc" |
Author: | ducapaso [ Sun May 27, 2007 7:24 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Actually the knob should turn inside the thread... It's sold as an assembly, but if your is blocked by the rost, you can try to remove it an plug inside a solving oil, like "svitol" or "crc" |
Author: | lceriani [ Sun May 27, 2007 10:48 pm ] |
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I used a lot of svitol, I bumped it with an hammer, I use a clamp... but it's still blocked... :toofar: |
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