Pasoist,

I'd like to think I'll bundle up and get out to ride frequently this winter, but I'm guessing this year will end up like all the rest. Spring will roll around and my Paso will have 6 months of stale old gas in the Paso along with bone dry cylinders. I've still got a couple hours of daylight left here so I think I'll attempt to actually winterize my Paso. Here's my preliminary list:

1. Wash and dry it.

2. Put a few ounces of 2 stroke oil in the gas tank and run it for about 5 minutes, to coat the motor with oil.

3. Pull side body panels.

4. Pull float bowls (Dell Ortos in this case) and the fuel line that connects to the fuel petcock. Blow the fuel line that connects to the petcock with about 40 psi compressed air. Reinstall float bowls.

5. Fully drain gas tank. I'll take it off to do this if I can't be sure I can get it all through the petcock.

6. Lube chain.

7. Put in it's winter resting place and cover with sheet, then blanket, extending to the ground to fully cover and keep most dust out.

Okay FinnPaso, Gerhard, and the rest of our northern latitude Paso brothers, what am I missing?

dave

this is not specific to cold climate - just depends on the humidity...

my 907 tank had rusted badly inside.
the concentration (ultimately - pinholes) was at the little triangular apex where the side cover / tank / fairing intersect.

this seems to be the point where a lot of scale collects, too.
the flakes and scale will breed more rust if not cleaned out - particularly if moisture is present.

if you are draining the tank I'd be inclined to put in some dessicant (silica gel) to absorb any moisture.

observe the warning and DO NOT EAT the silica gel.

P.S. I ended up re-lining the tank with epoxy resin.

Dave,

get a front and rear bike stand to lift the Paso up. For the front I`d consider a one armed stand, the type that holds the bike at the bottom of the steering axle. This comes handy also if one day you want to remove the forks and will be good for your steering bearings also. If you let the bike stand on the wheels raise air pressure a bit and move the bike once in a while.



there are cheaper variants like this that are just mounted to a standard rear bike stand (this is the upper part) (I have it with different top adapters so I can use it on different bikes)



Do drain the carbs and fuel line but fill up the tank to prevent any rust. (Plastic tanks should be left empty, metal tanks should be full)
In spring you can either drain the fuel and use it for your lawn mower or just add some fuel reconditioner (you can get that at any bike shop). I`m doing this every year and the bike fires up and runs well like this.

Never heard about the 2 stroke oil idea ...
Some remove the spark plug and squit in some oil. So or so you should put the bike in gear and turn the engine over by hand once in a while. For the rest of the time keep it in neutral.

Some people recommend to to put a large rubber band on the clutch lever to have it disenganged. This only to prevent that with the standing time the discs get stuck to each other.
I suppose this is more a problem if you store the bike outside or in a humid place or if you have an open clutch cover.

Clean the fork sliders and all chromed parts. Put some tallow (?! can`t find the correct english term) or silicone on the rubber seals of the fork so they won`t dry up. It`s the same stuff you use for your car door seals so they won`t freeze up so fast in winter. Silicone spray may also be used for the seat to bring back some shine and to stop the material from drying out.

If you don`t want to start working on the bike when bike season starts you may consider already now to change filters, oil and spark plugs.
Remove the battery and charge it.

If you cover the bike get a cover that is not full plastic as it may sweat underneath and start corrosion. If the bike is in the garage an old linen cloth or woolen blanket will do fine.

Spray MOS2 oil or wax on aluminium parts, bolt heads etc. to prevent oxidation, some spray it also on the brake discs which I wouldn`t do. Sand the discs if necessary and spray some brake disc cleaner on them, that will do if parked in the garage.

Wipe down the exhaust with an oily rag and then stuff it in the exhaust opening.

I`d also check and wax the rims as if there are some chips in the clear coat oxidation will start fast and the wheels will look ugly.

If you are already working you may give the accellerator cables and carb linkages some oil.

thant`s all I can think off.

G.