As we all are aware of, we all have a issue, problem, dilemma………. lets call it a : task, in converting our beloved PASO’s 750/906 from 16” wheels to 17”. I think it could be very interesting and inspiring, if the guys, who have done the conversion, could make some kind of “this is how I did it” maybe also with pictures in some kind of sticky topic or alike.
I am in the mist of the converting to 17”, and I have all the basic hardware, such as wheels and brakes. I also have a plan on how I want the end result, but it is also nice to see what others have made, and what problems they have ran in to.
Just a thought.
regards
Klaus
Denmark
PASO 750, 1990.

hi ,

I did not log in here for a while but i am still busy with my paso, and made a 17" conversion already.
I'm also doing a front fork conversion with a pair of laverda forks (paioli) but it didn't get any further yet because of my job, that takes too many time.

When i'm getting a little less busy i will write a topic with pics of how it is going.

Klaus i think you are the one that bought the m1r fork adapters from me ( i could be wrong of course) but if you want to know something, just ask.

There is a possibility that you get the answer a lot later but i will do my best to answer.

good luck , ab.

something can be found here (from the FAQs):
viewtopic.php?t=1455
and something is in the downloads thread i.e.
http://www.box.net/shared/lscrqbkkbx

G.

Don't see the point. I had a local frame builder put sliding adjusters on the swingarm to allow a 150/80 rear tyre. Point is a 16" wheel makes the bike steer quicker because of higher gyroscopic forces due to quicker wheel rotation. But what's really bothering me is that if you manage to fit a 17" wheel on the front it will contact the fairing and bottom valve cover on the engine when braking. I have heard of a primitive fix being to add a spacer that fits on the top of the forks but this makes for very little fixing length for the top fork clamp. So what is your solution to this serious fitment issue?

I can’t believe it, but I just have got a puncture on my rear m59 tyre . A screw right thru . It was recently fitted (march 2007). It happened the day after I wrote this post !¤”#%”#¤&”&”&”# DAM IT, THIS IS THE SECOND TYRE GETTING A PUNKTURE WITH A SCREW !”#¤%!%!¤&!&#!¤& . This is also one of my reasons for converting to 17”, it is a bit chancy going on a long holiday cruise with the 16” tyre, I think. I am also sure that the tyre construction is out dated.
Sorry if I sound a bit frustrated, but dam it, it was a near new tyre, DAAAAAAAAM IT , I WANT 17” WHEELS FITTED NOW !

Did I understood right, that U have too many screws in streets there???? Those holes in tires can be fixed easily, so what is problem? I agree, that old 16" Michelin is already too old tire. It was designed about 20 years(!!!!) ago. Btw, If U cant fix those holes in tires, can U sell them to me???

Uuuuh Antti. I prommised a picture of my spare clutch cover. Sorry about that. To much free love and drugs . Please find pictures at
http://s373.photobucket.com/albums/oo178/Nilaus/

It's a bit corroded, but it has no cracks and it no leakage. I changed it because I thought that it had a oval cylinder, but it turned out that the o –ring on the newly purchased piston was to small, as you can read in one of my posts “ viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1327 “ .