except to progressive fork springs and thinner oil it`s original. (Unless the usual rusting stop rings which I replaced with some in stainless steel I had made)

So that was the story from 1998 to end of 2009.
Beginning of this year I decided I didn`t like to lose the most of the most of the range/possibility to adjust the chain tension and swapped to a new 907ie swingarm I`d gotten years back when thinking about the wheel conversion. Clearances wouldn`t be any issue (except to tire chain) and I could play with the bikes geometry by having the possibility to move the wheel back, extending the wheel base and lowering steering angle a bit by the same time.
For keeping 16" wheels this is the option that requires the most parts fabricated incl. wheel and bearing spacers due to the different size axle. (having all the parts except wheels I now could do a 17" wheel conversion in less than one hour if I ever wanted to)
Also the rear brake caliper bracket won`t fit anymore and the one of a 907ie wouldn`t go with the 16" rim as it`s made for a 245mm brake disc which you can`t mount on the Oscam rim. Therefore the rear brake had to be modified, too which I had intention to do anyway. Luckily a friend helped me out doing some calculations for the front mounting bracket I had designed and choosing the right material.
During the engine rebuild all engine bolts were replaced with new ones and I had continued that when rebuilding the frame the last time. All small bolts & nuts were replaced with stainless steel parts, the ones for brake and fork with new zinc plated steel bolts. As a consequence when all parts for the new wheel/swingarm combination were machined and send to anodizing I had all the original/special bolts of frame and swingarm zinc plated & yellow alodined, too.

Looking scary big


If someone is wondering those are the bolts for 2 complete swingarms and not all those spacers on the left were for this project


M10 to M8 adapter bolt & modified brake caliper plate


In case you`re wondering using parts from a Superlight won`t work no matter if you have a P750 or a 907ie. The Superlight has a shorter swingarm and no lower frame tube from one side to the other. Hence the front mounting adapter is too short and the connecting rod also.







The trolley or whatever it`s called I got meanwhile is a blessing for a narrow garage (it requires an even flloor though because of its small wheels). I wouldn`t have made it though to put it under the centerstand myself. I had to use a rear bike stand to lift the bike, then position the trolley and let the bike down. To get the bike off it is easy, to get it on it is hard.

Offsetting the chain.

What a clean bike !!!!
So, you MUST to repaint the clutch cover!!!!
Ciao

that`s only for the TUV inspection, after that I`ll put the open cover back on. I don`t know how much the noise level has changed only by the big valves so currently I put all the original/ TUV approved parts on. Then I will change bit by bit and check if I`m still within legal noise emission limits.

You`re a freak, G, but the good kind.

Keep it coming!

I guess you`ve considered pods,
why did you do a new airbox?

Where did you get the offset parts for the chain? I'dd love to be able to just order them somewhere, as I have no machining capabilities...

You have a very clean bike indeed! And this is one of the best post on any bike forum!

As the header(s) now also didn`t match the rest I had it sandblasted last year, which was a stupid mistake. I should have had it glasbead blasted instead or just sanded it by hand. The result looked nice and like new but it had an orange peel surface. Actually I had wanted the header to stay clean but with this surface dirt would`ve stuck to it even better and burn in making it ugly in no time.
So the sanding began starting off with 80 grit paper over 120, 180, 240, 320, 400, 600, 800 and 1200 at the very last. After that polishing with the drill and 3 different brushes (sisal, hard and soft cloth) and polishes. The polishing set was a €30 set that`s being sold in many bike shops, so nothing special.
The complete 2in1 header took 9,5 hours, the 2in2 7,5h not calculating lunch and coffee breaks. The result cannot be distinguished to chrome. The parts look to good to be used now but I didn`t care about the looks as they will discolour yellow and blue quite fast anyway, but just have an even surface which would stay clean longer.
My legal SHARK exhausts had some scratches and were very dull so I did them too starting with 240grit and doing everything like on the headers. Luckily that went much faster as I could use a machine for most of the rougher sanding.
I`d had preferred a silk shine to high gloss but the alloy covers are much softer than ie the header and even using a very fine glaze pad would roughen up the surface too much for my liking. Some day the covers may be changed to carbon ones anyway if I find some in the correct size and a reasonable price. (no matter if alloy is actually better)
This was a couple of weeks ago. The headers had meanwhile gone off to welding.








G.

Gerhard, You Pasoholic

Tamburinifan is right G, you are a freak! You put us all to shame with parts looking like that... My headers are fairly rusty and I have been toying with the idea to get them ceramically coated in black.

When you threw the Paso down the road, did you have cracks in the fairing? Although my Paso hasn't got any accident damage it does have some cracks around the holes in the fairing where the well-nuts go. What would be the best way to repair this and prevent any further cracks?

Great posting!

Cheers,

Mike

I plan to cover my headers with 2 inch exhaust tape, we use it at work so we dont have to wait for our stainless to cool before we change things around for the next test cycle.Our exhaust reach temps in the 1000+ degree range, taped up you can hold onto it with your hand and not get burnt. Big plus when you have twenty minutes to make changes for the next test cycle. Besides I have neither the time or the interest in polishing to the extent G has done

G,

Mate, you trouble me, you trouble me deeply. Suddenly my Paso looks old, dirty, worn and in need of powdercoating, autosol and zinc chromate......

I really like the front bracket for the full floating rear caliper setup. If you have a CAD drawing you'd be willing to share that would be great. My own rear brake adaptation (for a 17inch conversion) is yet to be tested and another option like yours makes me wish I had pursued the "full floating" idea in the first place! But completely understand if you want to hold off posting drawings till you've had a chance to road test the final product.

I've also heard that the pods can make the carbs harder to jet for the low and mid range rpm? No personal experience but heard it from a few people...

Cheers,

Mick

I'm with Mick & higgy ... my Paso looks awful dull and unloved now. Man, just wow. Thanks for the intense write up and photo history, that's love, alright. Simply gorgeous!

And I just wanted to add - love the full-floating rear brake setup. I've been looking for the pieces & parts to put that on both my Paso and the Monster. Love everything else too!