Is there a special tool I need to remove the chain? And what about a new master link? This is looking a little more complex than I was expecting.

BB

It's almost certainly an endless chain, and is easiest removed by taking off the front sprocket. You may have to adjust the chain to maximum slack by turning the eccentrics holding the rear axle. To do that, loosen the locking screws on the eccentrics, and then loosen one axle nut. The eccentrics should move in unison when you turn the other axle nut. The nut on one side will turn the eccentrics one way when the other nut is loose, and the nut on the other side will turn them the other way when the nut on the other side is loose. Which side does which depends whether you start with your eccentrics in the up position or in the down position. I think.

There was a clip on one of the chain links, but taking it off didn't really give me much of an idea of how to get the link off. After looking at the front sprocket and picking my jaw up off the ground, I realize that I need a front AND back sprocket!

Tomorrow I'll get around to taking the sprocket and chain off, then maybe one of these days I'll get that new wheel and tire on.

Please don't take this as a personal attack,it is not meant to be.If you are having a problem figuring out how to replace a chain,it may be best to take to a shop where it can be accomplished.There are many safety issues that can be compromised by improper replacement.
Again,this is not meant as a personal put down,as i'm sure in your area of expertise you very well could put me and many others to shame.
The new chain should have a"staked" or rivetted master link which takes specialized tools to accomplish.Clip style can be used but in some cases the clip can come loose and chain can destroy set of expensive cases.Please give the above some thought in the vein in which it was intended.

yes, improperly installed chains and sprockets can have devastating results. a fly off chain can instantly destroy an engine, or worse, your leg (let alone the consequences of when it happens).

you should always replace your sprockets and chain as a set (as a general rule) for if one is bad, then the others are more than likely too.

that said, I prefer steel sprockets and o-ring chains. they will give you better longevity. you can also take this time to refine your gearing, however do NOT put anything smaller than a 15 on the front. 14s are simply too small, and can cause premature wear of the chain.

my personal setup is a 15 front, 40 rear, using steel sprockets and a did x-ring gold chain.

I was going to eventually replace everything anyway but was hoping to be able to just put the new wheel on with the old sprocket until I could get the new stuff. After seeing the condition of everything in there, I'll do the smart thing and replace all of it and have the peace of mind about it. Thanks for the advice

Mike,

You mention steel sprockets...is that the rear too? I've only been able to find aluminum ones.

qldman36,

I hear what you're saying but I have no way to get my bike to anybody and the only Ducati shop looks at me like I'm from mars when I say the word "Paso".

Chain and sprocket replacement is not a brand specific job.In fact for something as this,an independent shop is more than likely hungrier for the work and will often times do as good or better than a brand specific dealership in the hopes of repeat business.
If as you say you have no way of transporting,please,please find someone locally that can guide you thru,this is a relatively[sp] easy job but can have seriously unhappy results if not done right.Such as,if you end up using clip style master link,the clip must go on in only one way.I won't say which way as i hope you will get on scene help in this.[if put on wrong,almost always will come apart-there go cases and probably more]

qldman36,

Believe me, I'm not going into this lightly. I know what horrors can happen if done wrong. I don't have a lot of experience working on Ducatis, but have a few years worth from working on my Harley. I'll make sure and double sure that I've got this thing on right before I ever try to get close to riding it.

The original fitting is an endless chain, and a similar replacement would be preferable.

If you do it yourself, beware not to adjust the chain too tight, because that can do a lot of damage. Much better to have ther chain a bit loose than a bit tight - your bike will feel smoother that way too. I reckon that at the right setting, oscillations of the top run of the chain absorb vibration. I find 25mm slack to be the best setting.

If you haven't worked with eccentric axle mounts before, you'll find that very small movements of the eccentrics affect chain tension - 1 to 2mm movement at the circumference of the eccentric equals maybe 5mm of chain tension. One of these days I'll measure it. I reckon a lot of people set their chains too tight, and if they don't cause damage, at best their motors don't feel as good as they should.

No special tools to remove/break the chain. Grind off the tops of 2 rivets on the same link and pry apart. A dremel is and excellent choice of tool for this.

Installation is a bit more involved. Don't buy a clip master link. Have the new chain rivited or buy/borrow the tools.

Make sure you get a regular o-ring chain. Don't buy a "race" chain. The regular chains last longer but can still be had with the gold side plates if that's what you want.

Good luck.

Jon,
Seems he has a clip style master link on the old chain as he took clip off but can't figure how to disassemble.This is the reason i have been pushing getting help.
OK,if you insist on proceeding,the link side plate that you took the clip off can be pried off and then it is very straight forward.Do your utmost to use a staked or rivetted master,not clip style as there is chance of clip coming off and you know the results.Please try to find knowledgeable ridding buddy to back you up on this.Paso's are getting to scarce to loose one to an errant chain.