Rear Wheel Removal

Rear wheel removal steps here: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=3279

Side stand modification

if you don`t want it to retract automatically when you lift the bike


or just cut down the head of the side stand bolt so the plate can pass above it

Note, even if sometimes it can selfretract if you`re not standing right and the bike can tip over worse can happen if you modify it and forget to pull it up when taking off.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=4806&p=39070#p39070

Engine won`t start - what to check

https://app.box.com/s/x8fmn1brzuya97x8z44z

This does not cover the 907ie as it has additional relays and sensors that can cause problems.

If it is an electrical problem do also open the metal strain relief below the ignition switch as sometimes it can cut into a wire.


If the engine stops during a ride and doesn´t fire up again or only after a while there can be additional reasons:
- fuel breather line clogged (underpressure builds up in the tank and the fuel pump won`t be able to deliver enough fuel to the carb. If you hear a "pfff" if you open the filler cap or if it the fires up again with cap removed that might be the case.)
- dirt in fuel line, filter or pump causing clogging as soon as the fuel pump starts building up pressure.
- old ignition coils can run fine when cold but start failing when they get hot. Same for spark plug wires.
- if you recently had the tank removed make sure the tank breather hose and fuel overflow weren`t switched

Bad or high idling of a warm engine can be caused by leak air. I.e. the carb rubber boots of the inlet manifold may start to leak when they become hot. One can use starting aid or carb cleaner spray to detect a leak. If the engine revvs up if you spray on a certain spot you`ve found the leak.

P750 engine running on one cylinder (occasionally)

The problem could be everything from
low voltage to coils and CDI units (due to contact problems in the kill switch)
pick-ups (quite rare)
incorrect pick-up clearance to flywheel (air gap)
pick up wiring (can break where it goes through the engine cover. The pick-ups will measure the correct resistance if a wire isn`t completely broken which makes it tricky)
ground connection to CDI units
CDI units (quite rare)
wiring to the coils (kill switch, ignition switch)
check continuity of all wires that connect coils to CDI units
coils
spark plug (HT) wires
spark plugs, incorrect electrode gap
carb synchronization

HT wires can age and if a coil has cracks in the housing it can be affected by temperature or humidity.
The most common problem though is the wiring with bad connections and old wires with copper rust.
Measure the voltage at the coils and CDI units (orange wire) and if it isn`t nearly the same as the battery voltage clean the kill switch and all electrical connections (specially the main ground connections) then do the wiring mod.
https://app.box.com/s/waxvk1l9g47phfybd6n9
One indicator of low voltage at the coils is if the dropped out cylinders kicks in when rpms are increased. It seems that if there`s a voltage issue it`s most often the rear cylinder that drops out.
Electrical resistance of bad connections does increase with heat btw.

To rule out parts like CDI units or coils swap them from one cylinder to the other (one part at a time) then see if the problem shifts to the other cylinder. If the problem remains the same the parts swapped are ok and the problem is somewhere else. Begin with the spark plugs and work your way backwards to the coils and CDIs.

If the issue remains check compression and valve clearances.