try pulling the clutch lever and then fixating it with a velcro strap or rubber band. Leave it that way over night. If the bike`s on the center stand also turn the steering to the right. Might help.

Thank you for the suggestion. I did this two nights ago, then went for a 50 mile ride yesterday. the clutch seems to operate inconsistently: at times the upshifts and downshifts were silky smooth requiring little effort. At other times they both required major effort and were clunky. I am mystified. I feel another ride is nesessary to try to get a handle on its behavior.

Have you checked your chain lately ?

Yes Sir, I've had Nichol's Sport Bikes (2 valve Ducati specialists) verify that the chain and rear wheel sprocket are in fine condition and properly aligned with the correct placement of spacers along the rear axle. All seems to be well. Thank you for the suggestion!

I have found through much trial and error the best way to get the last of the air out is to take the master cylinder off and point the lever to the sky but it kinda sounds like you have something binding somewhere

If there`s still air in the system it could be that the clutch doesn`t fully disengage. Is the problem somehow related to the engines temperature? Does the clutch line touch the engine anywhere?

Thank you paso750 and higgy. We 3 agree that there may be air in the line. The clutch does not fully disengage even when engine is cold. I will check the line and see if it touches the engine just in case. I've had a clamp on the clutch lever for 3 rainy days. I look forward to the next ride to see if it's made a difference.

I had a Triumph with a front brake hydraulic system that was very difficult to bleed. I was able to make a huge difference in performance of the brake by quickly cracking open and shut all the banjo bolts in the line one at a time with the lever pulled in. A little fluid replete with air bubbles came from each. Result was a hard lever pull and nice action. Have you tried this procedure on the slave cylinder's banjo? I am tempted while my lever has been pulled in for 3 days.

Thank you again for all your time and attention. I would be bumping into things in the dark without this forum.

Did you ever get the mushroom pushrod out of the bearing?
Is it still within spec.? See F.A.Q.
If the stem of the pushrod shows signs of rotating and being hot (like mine) the bearing needs to be pulled and replaced. The bearing must rotate PERFECTLY with not even the slightest notch. Otherwise the clutch piston gets hot and things go bad from there.
Replacing the o ring and not the bearing is attacking the sympton rather than the cause.



Jack

Jack: I was able to get the mushroom pushrod out and the bearing did rotate without any notchy feel. Nichol's Sport Bikes verified that the slave piston was within spec., sourced a new o-ring and spring. I kept a clamp on my lever for 3 days after I picked the bike up from Nichol's and had that first disappointing ride. After clamp time, my last 4 rides (275 miles) have had the clutch operating without any issues. Neutral can sometimes be hard to find or select unless I am moving, but that has always been the case. Thank you so much for your help.