I installed a new copper washer on my leaking neutral switch, it just began to snug when the head of the switch broke off. The plunger itself is all that's holding the head to the threads. If I break the head off I think getting the threaded part out of the engine case won't be too bad, but, I fear the plunger part of the switch will fall into the motor. So my question is; If the clutch assembly is completely removed can I access the backside of the neutral switch?

It broke off at the B-line. My thought is that if the bike is in neutral, shouldn't there be something pushing against the plunger? I think if the bike is in neutral and I break the head off the switch, I may be able to unscrew it. With the head gone there should not be much tension or pressure on the threads.

The end of the plunger bears against the gear selector drum which has a bump on it to push against the switch at the neutral position. A friend had a similar breakage with the neutral switch on his 900ss. He managed to unscrew it easily with nothing left inside.

I'm feeling better about tackling this thing, now that I've had a few days of being busy, and time to think about it. I think I should shift the bike into gear so as to relieve any pressure on the threads, and then I think I will be able to get it to come out. Just need a little time and a warmer day. Been freezing here!

I would leave it in neutral. Pressure on the threads will only be that exerted by the spring which isn't a lot. In the neutral the cam on the selector drum will keep the plunger almost fully depressed so it has no chance of falling out into the gearbox innards. As it is being increased the gap will increase and the chances of that happening too but in the neutral position that gap will be at a minimum and the risk lessened.

I was going to try it that way first. Maybe New Years day, I've got the day off and I was able to set up my propane heater in the garage yesterday. I'll post what happens, thank you for your input!

Derek has a point but if the switch has broken off in position B and only the hollow & threaded part of the switch is left, the spring may have already jumped/fallen out. If not I'd probably remove it and insert a little bit of silicone sealant to secure the plunger from falling into the engine. If the threaded part doesn't turn it is possible you screwed in the switch too far and there's pressure on it in which case putting the engine into gear may help. Once it's loose you may be able to get it out with the eraser side of a pencil or something similar that has grip. If it's sitting tight and depending on how long the spring was, inserting a torx key may also be an option. You could also find a long thin bolt and glue it in. Best to do the last two when the gearbox in is neutral.
I'm still wondering why the switch snapped off. If you're still using the old one how thin was the new copper washer you used? The original one is 1.5mm.

I had to modify a screwdriver, but it came out pretty easily. I tried to pull the bolt head and turn but it broke off. Luckily when it did it bent the end of the plunger, so the plunger could not slide into the motor. I then modified a long thin screwdriver and was able to turn the threaded shaft outward, as soon as there was enough for a bite, I used hemostat's like small needlenose and threaded it out. Luckily I have two more switches!

Good outcome