Thanks guys.I only turned the motor a couple of times to see if the starter worked and the motor turned.I'll definately put oil into the cylinders and check the belts etc before I fire her up.

I've thought about putting that extra strut in but thought I would get away without painting it.Looks like I'll be doing it now .

I read somewhere about spacers in the right hand side engine mounts?.What is that all about.
Are there any other Sports that have a rebuild report on here somewhere.Would be interesting to read.
Cheers
Andrew

Keep in mind that a different fork length, triple clamp offset etc will impact handling for better or worse.
Some bikes with 40mm stanchion tubes are ie. some Guzzis (LM4 or early California) or some older Kawa GPZ, early Yamaha Vmax etc. Of course you`ll run into other problems as these bikes have bigger brake discs and use brake calipers with a different mounting hole distance. The axles may be a different size so you may have to change wheel bearings if wanting to keep the original wheels, fitting the speedometer drive could become a problem and you may have to machine the fork legs or some spacers to center the wheel. The original front fender also won`t fit anymore.
Of course problems are less if you find a complete frontend but then you will still have the problem of the speedometer drive and correcting the chain alignment in case you go for different wheels. You`ll probably also need new spacers for the rear wheel then and maybe other bearings for rim and sprocket carrier.
In case the RGV250 frontend is a swap (which I know nothing about, not having a Sport) I wonder if it can be used as is as the Sport is quite a bit heavier. (128 vs. 195kg)

G.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ducati-FORK-A ... 256b0efe4d

Just found this on eBay, might be of use if you want to keep it original.

Good luck with the rebuild, mine has slowed down due to finances.

Cheers, Rob.

Wow, a lot of work to do...

Are these the spacers.

Front right.


Rear right.


I also have one on the rear left.


My compliance plate says 12/1988.

Cheers
A2

It`s painful to see no single aluminium part where the paint hasn`t bubbled from oxidation.
The ground connections don`t look much better. I hope the other electrical contacts do.

G.

Ok, I need to do some measurements to get to the bottom of this spacer thing. I hadn't seen the one on the back left of the engine before.
Also, the spacers look small to me. I'm wondering how many versions of the frame they made now.

I'll measure my spacers to see what I have. Mine is a California issue 1989.

As G. pointed out, with all that corroded aluminum, you will need to spend a considerable amount of time on the electrical connections.