Thanks Phil, didn't think about whether there is enough space to recess under the seat but need to check that out as my fuse block has broken off it's mounts. The plastic has crumbled. Haven't pulled the tail off yet to look at that.

Trying to avoid elbows in the inlet tract too if I can help it, would prefer a straight entry. I have mocked up with some plumbing elbows I have lying around and they do not clear the brace either so any elbow would need a hump in the front edge to miss the brace. Given that I would prefer the extra effort to move the brace forward so might just bite the bullet and do it. It looks like with the brace moved forward a fairly decent K & N will fit. Ca Cycleworks supply an RU1750 with their kit that has a 2" rubber flange/neck with a 20 degree kick then a 4" long by 3.5" body which would be a good fit. Ultimately I would prefer a decent bellmouth adaptor with a short flange (5/8) K & N. There are some guys working on good bellmouth designs but unless the flange of the filter is flush or below the bell I see no benefit.


Instead of buggering around with some angled Unifilters that will still be compromised by pressing hard into the brace Ii may just have to get keen and move it now.

Yeah, well, if you cut and weld, then moving that cross brace forward looks to be a reasonable course of action. I think the only reason that brace is not further forward, was the original size of the battery needed, and you have downsized that quite a bit. if you need some CrMo tubing, and old bicycle frame offers plenty.

The SS has the battery near the top of the rear cylinder, which might work for you. Plenty of room under that tank with the air filters up front. Heck, you might be able to fit an SS air box.

Cheers, Phil