I have read questions and answers of other people who have had clutch problems and followed their advice - but still can't solve the problem.
Last time I took the bike out, there was no resistance at the lever, even after 'pumping' it, but the clutch worked ok - but straight from the grip.
The gear changes were as slick as ever and there was no creep at standstill, in gear.
I assumed that the system needed bleeding.
When I tried, I couldn't do this.
There seemed to be no movement of fluid and there was more suction on the return stroke, than pressure when the lever was activated.
The fluid looked thick and cloudy, so I changed it for new. I couldn't bleed the new fluid through the system and bought a Mity Vac which worked ok and used the vacuum to draw the new fluid and air,through.

But; I couldn't bleed the system and get the clutch to work at all.
It seems as if there is air getting into the system somewhere and I can't see that there is any fluid leaking out of the system.

All I can think is that the master cylinder needs overhauling but wanted to avoid this if possible.

I hope that someone out there has suggestions to solve this problem.
Thanks for any help.

Bleeding the clutch on a Paso is a real tough task. You probably have a bubble of air stuck in the banjo (elbow fitting) right at the master cylinder. Try bleeding it there first, you can also buy a bleeder srew for this location and always have it easy to bleed.

The mity vac is my least favorite tool. Lots of pumping and air in the system still.

You can also reverse bleed it, by pushing fluid UP from the slave to the master with a syringe.

did it today, got frustrated with the air in the system, unscrewed the handle bar to get the bubble of air out, this way you can make the reservoir the highest point of the system, problem solved.

The way I have found work for me is.:

1. Handle bar turned fully right, so that the brake head cylinder is as horizontal as it can get. ( at all time make sure that the reservoir is filled ).
2. Mount a piece of see through hose on the air bleed screw.
3. And her I usually suck the line until the fluid runs by it self into a bottle. This is to go on until there are no bobbles to be seen in the hose. Still being careful that the reservoir doesn’t go empty.
4. Then I carefully pump the lever. In some cases there will be small a resistant and in most cases there will be none. Then I put a cloth over the reservoir, to preventing it squirting all over the bike and start bleeding the clutch, by pulling the clutch lever farley quickly (this will squirt from the reservoir) with the bleeder closed and when the lever in the bottom position, open the bleeder screw let the fluid just pas through, and then closing the bleeder screw, and then release the lever. Continue this and there will slowly build up pressure on the clutch.

This procedure works for me. It will take about 15 or so min. if I am lucky but,,, at all time make sure that the reservoir is filled , or els you will have to start all over again .

Pump a way boys

Thanks for the advice guys.
I have made the master cylinder as high as possible (turning to the right and leaning the bike over to the right) but I will try taking off the handlebar and try again sometime this week.
I was hoping that the master cylinder didn't want an overhaul, and reading about the re-fitting of the internals. I hope that mine is ok in the end!