Would the list help me locate an online workshop manual for the Paso 906 please, i see from reading thro' the archives an attempt has been made to make a workshop manual available but when i tried it, i was informed that 'the link is broken' have i missed something obvious and it is available or am i faced with payiing through the nose for a paper copy? any help would be very much appreciated and may save me asking many 'obvious' questions on this forum!.... heres a couple for starters... do i need to split the clutch slave cylinder piston to remove the old 'leaking' seal as it seems quite reluctant to part (left hand thread??) or can i just stretch old and new seal over assembly? any other points to note / things to check when doing this job? clutch worked fine but was peeing fluid through vent hole in case after new fluid had been put in and system bled. Are seals available thro' Ducati main dealers still?
What is the correct battery for this model? sellers on fleabay tell me YB14L-A2 but i have connected one of these off my other bikes and found 1. it is physically small in the battery compartment and 2. it will hardly turn the engine over
I am going over this bike after a lay up of some 13 years!! engine is free and all electrics work
All the best J

the links work and if you`re shown an error click refresh in your browser
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1551

Thanks very much, it was a computer issue rather than a site issue, thanks for the very prompt reply / help - now for some reading!
Cheers
J

regarding the other questions. Yes, you can change the seal of your clutch slave piston. There`s something in the P750 FAQ about this. If the seal is available by the Duc dealer I don`t know as the old piston had an O-ring and the newer ones have a V-shaped seal. If the old piston has a square groove you can probably fit also the newer seal. Piston diameter is the same. Part numbers are in the FAQ so with these your Duc dealer may be able to check if the single seal is available.
The original 906 battery has 19Ah not 14, but I`m using a 10Ah battery (GS GT12B-4) in my P750 and it starts and cranks just fine. So in your case it could be both. A too weak battery and also the fact that the bike stood for so long. Does it crank easily and freely if the plugs are removed?

G.

Hello G, the slave piston has a square section groove 4 mm wide, the old seal is a single O ring measuring 3 mm in section and is round (in section) and is a rather sloppy fit, in my experience they are usually a square section and a snug fit in the groove, i wonder if the wrong seal has been used? Thanks for the info / direction on the seal, will speak to Duc shop man.
The engine cranks easily with the plugs removed and i was able to rotate the back wheel whilst it was in gear to position timing marks when i replaced the belts, so i am happy it's not seized in any way; the battery as far as i know was in good condition. I will look further in to what battery i should obtain.
The steering was extremely stiff and could not be turned lock to lock so i removed the forks and stripped the headstock this afternoon with the intention of cleaning / degreasing and re-assembling to find no evidence of grease at all on the lower taper bearing, and the rollers and cage had started to disintigrate!! so a new bearing is added to the shopping list! common prob on the Paso??
Thanks again J

Hello again, i have just had a look at the section on repairing the slave cylinder piston in the FAQ section and my piston assembly is like the one shown on the right in the last pic, NR:19520011B; is the 'mushroom pin' the round item in the middle of the bearing with a small hole in it? or is it a seperate item? if so mine is missing, also it shows a similar round seal to mine. J

J, I was wondering. After 13 years standing did you rebuild the engine ? If the motor wasn`t turned over or the complete bike/engine laid on the side once in a while the cylinders must have become bone dry so I personally would`ve taken the heads off to take a look. However the engines are quite robust.

The mushroom pin is an essential part of the clutch. Without it the inner and outer race of the pistons bearing would touch the pressure plate when disengaging the clutch causing the piston to spin which will consume the pistons seal and start a leak. In worst case causing some damage on the cylinder walls of the clutch cover. Btw the same if the bearing starts to seize. (better to shift to neutral than holding the clutch disengaged for a longer time ie at a traffic light)
You`ll have to check closely what slave piston you have. According to the parts catalogues the one from the 906 and the P750 are build differently so the mushroom pin is not interchangeable, but the complete piston assembly is.
The 906 piston has a thicker wall, a loose ball and a needle bearing inside. No clue where you could find a mushroom piston for this one if not from your Duc dealer.

If it`s the piston like in the P750 it`s easier. This mushroom pin also isn`t available from most Duc dealers but some guys had one machined. According to the P750 parts catalogue there were 2 types, One bronze and another. I recently found a source for the second one. It showed up in the new 2010/2011 Stein Dinse catalogue. () The order number is 067016730 and it costs €4,25. (Stein-Dinse is a german shop for Duc/Guzzi parts that has a few distributers in different countries. Not UK though. In US it`s . In Australia it`s Stein-Dinse in Healesville, Vic., phone:006135-9621366 )

If you have the 906 piston as described and can`t find spares for it the only option I see is to change it with the 19590023B. You`ll still need the P750 mushroom pin mentioned and a SKF 608-ZZ bearing.

G.

G, The bike was regularly turned over apparently and completely drained of fuel, i am as happy as i can be motor is good (only 10500 miles on it)
I am still not sure what the mushroom pin looks like, can you point me to a picture of one? does it sit inside the face of the slave piston bearing? i have found the listing for it on the German site you mention but they don't show a pcture of it.
My piston is like the one shown in the last pic on the subject in the FAQ on the right (NR:19520011B) is that the mushroom pin in the middle??? thanks again for your help J

check the parts catalogues of 906 and P750. Otherwise in this thread there`re pictures of the 906 (type) slave piston
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=3236
and here you`ll see the P750 mushroom pin
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=3278&start=30

Thanks G. after reading the various threads i have at last got my head around the whole issue; my piston assembly is a 19520011b and i can now see that the 'mushroom pin' is a press fit into the middle of the bearing and so my assembly is complete after all, all i need to rectify my clutch fluid leak problem is an 'X-ring' type seal from ProTwins.
Thanks for all your help on a simple yet complex issue! J.

good. Still give the bearing(s) a good look. There must have been a reason why you had a leak. Maybe in this case it`s just a matter of age. The seal could have glued to the cylinder wall if the clutch wasn`t used for years and using it then damaged the seal. Be sure the cylinder walls in the clutch cover are clean, too.

G.

Hello G, I suspect you are spot on about the piston / seal sticking due to none-use, there is a 'rough' patch on the seal where i suspect it was stuck with a corresponding mark on the cylinder bore within the cover. I have inspected the piston and the cylinder bore closely and after a wipe over with meths and a rub with solvol and more meths all appears well.
The bearing within the piston turns ok and feels 'smooth' but i note a slightly polished surface to the pin and it's corresponding position on the pressure plate but i don't think this is anything to get concerned about as there must be some slippage when the clutch is engaged / dis-engaged?
Do you have any tips / comments re. replacing the headstock bearings or which make of bearing to use for this model? i am replacing mine as i noted the steering was 'notchy' and on strip down i noted they were devoid of any grease!! i mean bone dry!! I can not believe with the few miles this machine has done that the headstock has been removed before, could it be they were assembled at Bologna in 1990 dry??!!!
Thanks for your help. Jon

That with the pressure plate and pin is normal.
Regarding your steering bearing who knows. Maybe it was friday afternoon in Bologna and the guys wanted to go home so they just put oiled bearings
You´ll find info about the bearings in the P750 FAQ, I think on page 3.

I changed the steering head bearings in my 907 a couple of years ago. Had the same problems, notchy steering. I replaced the bearings and the races. As I recall I didn't have much of a problem with the replacing, you just have to drive out the races and get/make the right size tool to tap them back into place. I used PVC pipe fittings from a hardware store to make a tool and a long rod to drive the races out from the opposing end. Better replace the races along with the bearings or you will be back doing the same repair again.
du907

Yes, i am replacing the whole lot as they are all scrap, did have a bit of bother getting lower inner off, used a hand grenade in the end
Were yours greased up from the factory or were yours also dry of lubricant causing the notchiness, mine were semi seized? did you re-use the top and bottom rubber seals ? Jon