Hey Guys,

I was doing my spring tune-up and decided to check on the clutch since it had been barking a little more than normal. This stock clutch has just over 5000 miles on it and the drive plates looked like they needed re-facing. [Last season I had gotten caught in a couple of rain storms and the steal plates had some oxidation.] So, I broke out the scotch-brite wheel and my die grinder and cleaned up all the drive plates and pressure plate. While I was in there I decided to experiment with the clutch pack. I remember not to long ago I had read somewhere on the net about being able to quiet the clutch pack and make its operation smoother by adding another friction plate (or two) to the back of the clutch basket. After trying to locate more detailed info on this I was unsuccessful so I thought I would experiment with the clutch and share my findings with all of you.

First, the clutch reface R&R of the drive plates is easy to do and seems to help make engagement smoother.


Second, I recorded the order of plate installation as I could not find any reference to the 907ie clutch pack order in any archives or anywhere on the net. Below you will find the exact order of installation and what I found to work extremely well.


Third, I have now put 200 miles on this clutch since I installed it last week and I am blown away by the excellent performance of this new clutch arrangement. The clutch is actually quiet under drive/engagement and only makes its tamburine jingle when the clutch lever is pulled. Excellent engagement with no slipping or groaning.

I have included the following videos for you to see and listen to the clutch update compared to before I did the modification and after.

After:

After:

Before:

My clutch kit combination put together from Ducati factory and Barnett plates:

1 Spring plate 1.5mm
8 Drive Plates 2.0mm
7 Friction Disks 3.0mm

1 additional 3.0mm Barnett FRICTION Disc installed at the back of clutch basket.


That is a clutch pack of 16 discs that equal about 38.50mm max clutch pack thickness with 1 additional 3.0mm friction disc at the back of clutch basket. *= 17 TOTAL clutch plates*

Order of disks from the back of basket to the front of the clutch pack (clocking each drive plate 1/25 turn using notches) ending at the pressure plate:

1) *Extra Friction Disk at the BACK of basket

2) Drive Plate 12 0’clock

3) Drive Plate 3 0’clock

4) Friction Plate

5) Spring Plate 9 0’clock

6) Friction Plate

7) Drive Plate 12 0’clock

Friction Plate

9) Drive Plate 3 0’clock

10) Friction Plate

11) Drive Plate 6 0’clock

12) Friction Plate

13) Drive Plate 9 0’clock

14) Friction Plate

15) Drive Plate 12 0’clock

16) Friction Plate

17) Drive Plate 3 0’clock

Pressure Plate

Top effort , should be able to drag off a few at the lights now! I reckon they will be left at the lights due to wondering ,
" HMMMM,....... haven't seen those pipes on a Ducati before, must be one of the new models, it looks real modern and tidy."

Thanks on the clutch info.
Marty

Each 3 months I remove my clutch plates and clean the brass grip plates with wire wool. I leave the steel friction plates because they are cleaned during use. I pump out the slave cylinder to its maximum and clean the exposed cylinder with the wool before smearing with lithium grease and returning it to its position. I oil the slave cylinders top bearing with a light oil. When I reasemble the clutch plates I search for the alignment 'dot' on the clutch basket and begin to put in the plates, the steel friction plates all have a dimple on the outside and every one is placed with the dimple nearest the alignment dot. There are thick and thin friction plates, the thick ones are pushed in first (between grip plates) and the thinner ones are last to go in. The retaining circlip is last to go on and the circlip gap is also aligned to the clutch basket 'dot'. Does this sound alright?

I quite like the 'jangle' when I use the clutch though.

Truly you appreciate all things that mean Ducati.

Top notch info. Thanks kindly.
Mine is a wee bit noisy these days. I think a Saturday afternoon
and some work like you folks have done and described will work wonders!

Ace job with the clutch solution...certainly will try it. Kudos on the best sounding set of pipes for the 907ie that I ever heard, great look too !!! Very slick, well done.

Gday there,

Did you have the Barnett pack in prior to your research?

My current clutch pack came from a 1098, everything is the same in terms of pack thickness and order of plates AND the slippage we all seem to suffer from.

I have flurted with trying stronger springs but the current set is within tolerances so havent gotten to that just yet.

Your comments on the Barnett pack would be appreciated.

Cheers

my .02c worth.

I use a MPL slipper clutch and this has a specific order of plates and a specific amount you measure after the clutch is assembled.
I use a Barnett pack that slipped after a maybe a thousand kms.
I disassembled and found the fibre pads a bit burnt/glazed. I cleaned them with 400sandpaper and brake clean to remove the oily stuff and asssumed I didn't clean them properly when I first installed them. Since they have been perfect.

Also there is a measurement I must use of around 1.3mm, that is the gap from clutch out to clutch in.
This with the MPL is how much space you need so the clutch does not drag when disengaged, or clutch lever in.

I always thought the jangle comes from the basket wearing, so the "tangs" on the clutch plates move back and forth against the basket.

I used a new basket with the slipper and its very quiet ....still.

Just a point, on Foxtel [our cable provider in OZ] they had a motorcycle program on the best safety items on a bike. I presumed it would have been ABS, but nope, they reckon a slipper clutch is the number 1 safety item you can fit to a bike!!

Yeah , it is a great mod Donaldoduck , one I have advocated for ages , I just dont understand why it took you a day and a half to put it together

feels like I've been missing out on something...my bike has been too reliable, never had the clutch ass apart and it works just fine, smooth gear changes and all...touch wood!
I dont even know what a slipper clutch is, but if it makes the bike safer, I better investigate

Claude, all it does is on a downshift it allows some slip in the clutch plates to prevent wheellock up. Also may prevent an engine over rev. Most useful in the wet.
It does this by using, in my MPL unit, 12 ball bearings on ramps that allow the presure plate to rotate up the ramp, therefore slipping the clutch a bit. Thats the best I can explain it.

how much did that cost Nigel? Im not an aggressive rider, not sure if I need it...do you still get enough engine braking?

btw: went for the ride with the DOCV today, the roads were wet but the weather was nice, good day to try out my new tyres, a vast improvement over the old rubber
the old iron horse went really well, and kept up to the modern machinery...now she"ll be resting for a few weeks, oil change, and a good service