First winter w it, checked ground on engine at crank vent + the one on frame under crank vent tank.
More important ground connections to check?

Wiring: All fuses checked & connections to regulator.
Any more vital wiring/connections to check?

One of most important are those yellow wires from generator to regulator, especially those "round connectors" close radiator. NO anykind of resistant cant be accepted in connectors/lines..... Better solution is to take those connectors away and weld wires together and put very good insulation tubes to weldings...

something to keep in mind on the charging circuit...

the yellow wire from the alternator to regulator also is the same wire that works the charge warning [battery] light.
If this wire is disconnected [crappy connector] you don't get any charge AND the red idiot light doesn't show it's not charging.

Isn't that handy?

The only redeeming feature is if the connection has failed that the red light is not on when the engine is not running [so you can check before you start the engine].

hi Gert,

I upgraded several times the wiring from the batterie to the starterrelais and startmotor to a cross section of 16 mm2 or even 25 mm2.
Do this also to groundcircuit (motor to frame to batterie) in same dimension.
benefit is more crancking power due to lower voltage drop.
Lower voltage drop means better sparkplug means better starting engine and a easier life for the battery. furthermore I use a lot of petroleumjelly in the connectors and switches to avoid corrosion. corrosion means increased resistance means heat. no further explanation required i think.

Ducbertus

......

Thank you all!
And fine to know why my charging indicator does not work...
Good news is I guessed the regulator is switched, no wire to ind bulb.

my 907 had been fitted with an after-market regulator when I bought the bike.
this regulator did not have facility for the warning light either...maybe same as yours???

the reg was always quite hot (very hot) and the wiring had been cooked & repaired at some stage

when we were testing the misfire we hooked the bike up to an oscilloscope.
the current showed an AC spike which we thought could affect the power supply to the P7.
The wiring was re-done such that the battery conditioned the power to the P7.
We aslo changed the regulator which got rid of the spike but didn't help the misfire...
The new regulator had the same wiring as the original wiring diagram - so we re-wired the warning light back in.

Something to look into:

On the voltage regulator you will notice 4 castings in the fins that are space just right for a small, 12 volt fan like those used on computer CPU cooling sinks. I drilled those castings to accept small screws and install a CPU fan on my regulator. It comes on when you start the bike and runs silently. It keeps the regulator quite cooler, especially when you are stopped. No regulator problems in the last 4 years.
du907

...and also RR needs very good earthing! Not so bad idea to make new earthing from cooling fins to ground....

Yes! "R"egulator / "R"ectifier

I checked mine.
the former owner already mounted an additional wire for extra ground.

its important to have good earthing and heatdisepation.

Ducbertus

When I got my 907 the regulator/rectifier had already been replaced with a Honda item. This was barely effectual at the best of times and, after recomendations from this forum, was consequently relaced with an electrex item.

I have not had any problems since with either overheating, charging or grounding, but I always make sure that any earth contacts are cleaned and making good contact whenever I do any work on the bike.

Maybe I am just lucky with my bike!

So, a simple cable cooling fins RR to frame is a good thing?