the ATS is the air TEMPERATURE sensor - and may be affected by heat because it's just near the vertical cylinder...

Like I said elsewhere - I replaced the ATS with a resistor which would have told the bike it was at between 30 - 40 degrees air temp.

the sensor on the outside of the air box is the MAP [PRESSURE]sensor.
it has a rubber hose connecting the air box to the inlet to the sensor. The MAP sensor tells the ECU what the ambient air pressure is (like if you are at altitude) and it reads the airbox internal pressure for engine vaccuum

and yes, I have tried a spare MAP sensor to make sure it works...MAP sensors are hard to test properly because you need controlled conditions and vaccuum.
I was lucky and picked one up cheap - they're about $500 from Ducati. It is the same unit from a Peugeot.

OK, got it. Thx again f sharing1
Will keep the cig butt trick in mind... :thumbup:

All the temperature sensors are just NTC resistors that change resistance at temperature...
the "fixed" resistor only replicates what the ATS or WTS would output as a resistance at a particular temperature.

you just use a "standard" resistor - the kind you find in any electronics shop. these only cost a dollar or less each - so you can buy a few different ones and try any temperature [resistance] you like...I would try to chose (say) 80 deg for the WTS and 30 - 40 or lower for the ATS. If you ride in a hot place or ride in slow traffic where the bike gets hot maybe try WTS 100 / ATS 50-60 too...

be careful not to damage the plug when you push them in - preferably use similar size spade connections.

NOTE: DO NOT LEAVE THESE IN FOR AN EXTENDED TIME. This is just to diagnose a potential fault and eliminate a variable. If you leave them in the bike will think it's at the selected operating temp even if it's stone cold or boiling hot - you might feed it the wrong fuel mix - probably won't kill it unless you overheat...TAKE CARE WITH THIS. Keep an eye on your engine temp.

here is a link to the ATS and WTS and graphs for temperatures
http://www.magnetimarelli.com/racing/Sensors_2005.pdf
http://www.cosworth.hu/content/hasznos/ ... -05-07.pdf

suggest for the ATS use a 2k ohm +/- 500 ohm

you can test the ATS sensor with a multimeter and a hair dryer on heat.
you can even put it in the fridge if you live somewhere cold and need to test below zero...
you can test the WTS with a multimeter and a pot of water on the stove - when it boils you should have 100 degrees
watch the multimeter doesn't drop out during the heating - this might indicate a dead spot in the sensor.

the ECU reads these signals [resistance] and adjusts the fuel amount according to the map in the chip.

it is not uncommon for auto manufacturers to fit "piggy-back" resistors in parallel or series to EFI components to adjust the mix. This also goes for the sensors in the exhaust.

Good job, Laddie! :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

Thx f the info & links, Laddie! :thumbup: