Hi there folks

Well I have tried just about every avenue available to source a damper unit for my MR1 with no success. So my only alternative is to remove and blank off the damper.

Simple enough and a lot cheaper and I can imagine no different than doing the same as I did to my old Kawa GPZ600 that had similar items on each leg acting as elaborate anti dive units.

My only Question is will this have any huge impact on the performance of Forks?

My second is once again - has anyone got a spare unit they want to sell?

my other thread on this is here viewtopic.php?f=4&t=3615

Many thanks

You cant block it off, and expect the fork to still function properly. The oil orifice is in that unit, and that's what changes the damping. The oil comes in one hole and out the next. The dial switches between different orifice sizes. If you block it off, the fork will not function. It will just lock up. The Kawasaki one was certainly an antidive devise. The M1R is the damping control.

I have a spare one, but it goes with the spare fork I have. I will lend it to you, but I won't sell it, as I will need it when the fork goes on my single project bike.
ping me off line. phildotstobatgmaildotcom ;~)
Of course, the best way to get one is to keep asking, and troll e-bay regularly.

If you have a machinist friend, they can make a block that fits on there and you can simply drill the passage to fit your damping needs. Its simple enough, two mounting holes and two oil holes with a passage between the two.

Cheers,

Many thanks for this and thank you for your kind loan offer, sadly as I am over the "pond" so to speak, I feel it best to decline, but a big thank you.

Looks like I am gonna have to keep searching then?

Is there any where I could get the damper housing serviced the main adjustment gear wheel on top is pretty mashed up?

Does any one know if there is a similar type of unit used by marzocchi on another bike that might duplicate the action of this unit?

if yours doesn't leak, then call it good and use it. You don't get the adjustability, but you have a functioning fork. You just have to adjust the damping by changing the oil weight, the old fashioned way.

Cheers,

906 forks for sale here http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1990-90- ... ccessories

G'day
why not just get Gold valves put in them.
I am sending mine off to ASR [in Victoria Aust!] tomorrow for rebound and compression valves.
Problem sorted, new technlogy for our bikes.
[i am also ordering a Wilbers rear shock, comp/rebound/high & low speed circuits, you can also get a adjustable height unit]

Do you know the part numbers of the Gold Valves they're putting in? Racetech don't list one for the 907.

Which Wilbers shock are you getting?

i have a few M1R sets for parts....just contact off list. info@ducpower.com

Best setup for M1R's is light fork oil- 5 or 7w. Make sure anti-friction bushings at bottom of fork legs are in good shape. Gold valves work OK....not really necessary for a street bike,though. There are too many variables on the street to tune a suspension with any great deal of precision such as what the gold valves afford. I'd just start out light on damping.

Ed

I agree with Ed, but if you want the full monty, here's an article for you.
http://www.laverdamania.com/emulatorgb.htm
It seems the M1R was also used on Laverdas, and those guys seem to spend more time writing about their forks.
That should also be a hint for you e-bay addicts.

Now, should I use the shorter 907 springs, or the longer 750 springs in my forks? (of course adjusted with spacers to fit)

Cheers,

M1R's were used on early Buells as well - probably not helpful - but you never know....

My knob is mangled too... but the thing still works, just a pain in the ass to adjust...... so I dont