Just want to know the proper way to set the idle speed on an 907ie. Mine seems to idle around 1000 rpm and I fell should be just a bit higher to prevent stalling

It's a bit of an idle answer I know but the answer is in your question set it at the speed that the engine feels happy at and obviously keeping it ticking over happily assuming that the timing and the fueling is in good order and that the carbs' are set correctly. Take into account the water temp as well as this will also have an effect if it takes a little longer to warm up then allow for this - as once explained to me water boils around the world at different temps so for me a cold Italian December morning will be a comparatively whole lot colder in old biighty than there.

I always set it at the best the engine will accept as long as everything else is assumed and known to be functioning correctly.

carbs ?

If valves clearances are OK, TPS & CO set properly:
Unscrew right idle air screw until you reach 1200 RPM.

There are few things to consider and all the guys on this forum can give you plenty of things to look at.
My 2 cents are as follows:
1. If the TPS has not be moved and is set correctly (checked with ohm meter).
2. The Throttle bodies are synchronized and balanced, meaning the butterflies open together the same amount while twisting the throttle (there is a screw in the linkage on the left side, DON'T TOUCH IT, USED ONLY TO SYNC THE THROTTLE BODIES).
3. The air screws have been set with an O2 sensor hooked up for proper readings.
4. There are stop screws on each throttle body that can be adjusted. The screw on the right throttle body can only be accessed with the air box off (once with the air box off I aligned a hole on top of the screw that I could access with the top of the air box off, then I just plugged it with a rubber plug when done). The left stop screw can be accessed from the front through the opening in the fairing just under the radiator with a very long screw driver or a 8mm (I think) with a long extension. I believe just adjusting the one side will work given everything else is set correctly.
It's how I do it.
du907

Thanks for the reply, I played with the 2 air adjustment screws and now I've made it worse! Seems to take longer than it should to return to idle after blipping the throttle, similiar to a lean condition.I have not checked the TPS (Don't know the procedure) and have not checked with an o2 sensor. What would the base setting be on the 2 air bleed screws to start at? Seems to act lean below 4000 rpm, and I did get it to idle by adjusting the screw underneath on the left side throttle body. any help greatly appreciated! thanks

I don`t own a 907ie. Just wondering as according to the workshop manual (that`s downloadable for everyone) the idle screws are on the right side and only the right fairing needs to be removed (see page D3 or user manual p.92).

Normally left idle air screw is fully closed & not fiddled with,
right 1/4-3/4 turn is normal but could be more or also less (fully closed).

Thanks for the reply... I will try that tommorow and also the cigarette butt trick in the MAP sensor air line...Bike has staintunes, stock airbox and filter with horns, 23U chip...still the dreaded lean below 3500 rpms...FBF chip coming in monday any other items I've over looked? Also all engine components check out A++ valves, compression,etc.

Recieved and installed the FBF chip today and it worked wonders...No more stumbling,popping,or hesitation and the bike idles perfectly at 1200 rpm cold or hot.. I highly recommend it to all

I was looking for this information and finally found it. It's from the FIM Ultimap site that has be taken off the web.
It describes how to reset the TPS and balance the throttle bodies and everything else. I have done this procedure and it is time consuming but it does work.
The adjusting of the TPS a little this way or that will set the base lean or rich and all the adjustments that follow will be based on that. In other words, set the TPS to rich and how much adjustment is left to lean it out with the other steps will be affected, set to lean and you may not be able to adjust to a rich enough setting.

Can we please get that 'fuel in moto' info on a pdf??

OK 'edit'

I saved each picture and printed them out, a bit blurry, [its 9am so no I haven't been on the piss!], but readable. Interesting, looks like a job that needs more $$ spent on tools than what it would cost to get done several times by a competent dealer.

In your collective experience, how often should this be done?
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I went to a Ducati Club of Victoria info day at 'Motologic' in Melbourne.

They are racing a 1198 in Aust Superbikes. Amazing workshop!!! [dream away Nigel!]

Anyway, they have a guy there who has developed a product similar to a power commander,

The basicunit is AUD$549 and there is a pro unit that adjusts timing as well.
The unit plugs between the ECU and the injector.
You then tune out the lean/rich spots after the Ducati ECU etc.
All displayed on you laptop! You can plug in a USB stick and download your ride, everything from speed to mixture settings and then adjust back home.

He felt that a connector for a 907 shouldn't be too hard to make up.
Obviously all the above should be done first.

Most bikes run very lean to pass emission tests, harleys are very bad in this respect!

Also they used a brake cleaner fluid by OLEON

It comes in 20lt drums, AUD$110, and you use a pressure pump.
Worked a treat [very well for you non aussie speakers] and a fraction of the cost of buying an aerosol.