Sorry Hamish, we'll have to agree to differ on this. Buggered if I'm going to strip the calipers and fit new seals every time I change the fluid, which is annually. Changing the fluid and cleaning the pistons regularly is preventative maintenance that helps keep them in good order for longer.
Seals for F08 are easily got. 30/34 kits are a bit harder to get but can be got from KTM dealers if you know which models used the same brakes.

Yeah well , thats a bit different to the op's post . If you change the fluid anualy then you dont need to give things a thorough clean out. There are some who give little thought to things untill they dont work any more. The op owned the bike from new , doesnt mention any previous servicing of the brakes, so Im thinkin maybe they are still "factory fresh" and thusly need a bit more looking at , and offering up quick fixes at this point might not be the best thing to do

When you bleed the brakes you need to take the master cylinder loose from the handle bar and tilt the master cylinder level or the banjo fitting slightly down or you will be trying to get that hard lever feel all day. The way the master cylinder tilts slightly up when on the handle bar can cause a little air bubble because the banjo fitting is slightly higher. It's just the way they sit on the handle bar. You have to do this on a lot of bikes.
Been there, done that many a times.
du907

Yes , I find the clutch is even worse. I find that if you turn the bars to full lock it levels out the master cylinder. I think the clutch fluid line has a large internal diameter which makes it easy for bubbles to rise up the tube , especially when the bubbles are compressed as you pump the lever. Now that I have a small hand pump I usually attach the pump to the bleed nipple and pump the fluid up to the master cylinder, where you still have to think about clearing the banjo area out as du907 says .