Yes, I believe so. I will double check that it is both tomorrow.

I don't think so. The red wire should have battery voltage. So should the brown one which switches the second relay. If there's 1V on the fuse, that is what the second relay gets and that surely isn't enough to activate it. Let us know every voltage you measure.

Just to add one more thing. If relay 1 clicks and there's voltage on the brown wire it means the voltage drop caused by the ignition switch does not affect the operation of this relay and isn't the cause of your fuel pump issue. It must be addressed tho as it affects everything that is connected to the fuse holder including the headlights.
To get back to the starting issue you must figure out why the full 12V don't get to the relays although their red wire connects directly to the battery. Once this is solved and if there's no other issue awaiting the bike may start.

Shot in the dark:
Once mine didn’t start when both bulbs in rear light was broken.
Dunno if it was a design in wiring or a gremlin.

Must have been the latter as that makes no sense looking at the wiring diagram. That would mean that your bike would only start when the (tail)lights are on as having the lights off would be the same a having broken bulbs.

So the red wire on the first relay measured 12v but the brown wire measured 0v. On the second relay, the red wire also measured 12v but the violet measured 0v.

You're getting closer. Nothing is getting through the relay.
Is there voltage on the grey wire at the relay (ign switch on) and how much? If the really clicks as you said earlier there should be.

What doesn't add up is that before you measured 1V at the relay's fuse. That is impossible. It basically sits at the end of the red wire. It must read 12V on both sides or if it's blown 12V on one and 0V on the other side. Recomfirm that please.

If the relay gets its switching voltage (grey wire) and clicks there should be 12V on the brown unless the fuse isn't good or something else inside the relay is broken and is preventing the red wire to be internally connected to the brown.
If it clicks it means it's getting the required ground signal from the ECU. Which is good.

At the risk of muddying the water here, but a couple of years ago I pulled in for fuel (thats gas for you yanks) and then when I went to leave, NO fuel pumps, so no start. I did a quick look around and traced problem to a corroded fuse on top of one of the relays. The fuse was not blown but there was corrosion on the tangs. A quick clean got me going again and I replaced both relays and fuses when I got home.

So I measured the voltage on the grey wire and it was showing 9.58v. I also measured the fuses on the relays again. Obviously, I didn't do this correctly the first time. I got just under 9v on the fuse on the first relay, and 12v on the fuse on the second relay.

Arch,
Since you have so many Pasos, doesn't one of them start and run. If so I would check voltage at places of interest on the one that runs/works and compare to the one that doesn't start. Also check the square white plug on the left side zip tied to the rail back about the tail end of the tank. Mine wouldn't start one time and I worked and worked and found this plug had worked loose. Also check the main plug that goes into the ECU under the seat. I comes with a metal tag that hooks on the plug. Mine worked loose and left me stranded. I use a zip tie on it now like a safety wire.

Arch,
Take a look at this site. https://motolectric.com/makes/ducati.html

I put these wires on mine and man does it make a difference. Bike starts just like they say, and it saves on the battery and starter clutch. And since my engine has been "built" and has more compression I needed something stronger to turn that engine over. They use better wires and a better process to mount the ends to the wires.
It works!

Hi Byron, thanks for the info but it's not me with the problems. Arch.

sounds to me like what is needed here is some basic instruction in using a multi meter
basically only 2 things you really need to know at first,well make that 3
1 Multi meter are usually fused. Before you do anything you need to know the fuse or fuses in the meter are good. The instructions that came with the meter will tell you how to do that. RTFM is always a good place to start especially when you are first learning to use one.
2 I just remembered another thing you need to know. How to plug in the test leads.
again RTFM (read the "fine" ManuaL)
3 when measuring a voltage the black(usually negative ) test lead can be hooked up to any good ground and left there for testing,the negative battery terminal is a "GOOD" ground assuming the wiring is connected to the battery at both terminals.
4 the positive(red) test lead is momentarily touched to the circuit to be measured and a reading taken,This does assume you have the meter on the proper settings,again RTFM!

Hope this helps
PS manuals can be found online at the makers web site generally,sometimes you need to poke around a bit

This topic continued a little bit offline.
What's so far established is that the first relay is ok and the second doesn't switch the voltage through. So it's either the relay or it's missing the ground signal from the Marelli Digiplex.

Yes paso750 has been of immense help. I had almost no experience dealing with electrical problems until this bike, but Ive learned a lot already.

I did spray a squirt of starter fluid into the airbox and it started to run for a second. The fuel pump is completely dead. Ive ordered a new one and will replace it this weekend probably. If I get it running, I will then sort through the remaining electrical issues as best I can.

Unfortunately, Ive been consumed with trying to repair my Ducati 998. I replaced the clutch and had a no start issue. It could be serious, so this is going to take more time to evaluate.