I hope you didnt get the same chain , looks light weight ,like maybe for a MX bike. Could be why it broke , also could be over tightening chain.
The chain tension changes as the rear suspension moves up and down . The chain is at its tightest when the output shaft (with front sprocket on it ) the swing arm pivot ant the rear axle are in allignment . At this point the chain should have minimal slack but not be pulled tight . If you can be bothered you could use a ratchet tie down and pull the suspension down till these pivots are alligned and set the chain tension to have next to no slack ( but not tight or stretched ) and then release the suspension and see how much slack you now have . This is your correct chain slack ....usually about 20- 25mm .
Chain slack ,(clearance ,tension , whatever you want to call it ) can negatively affect gear changes . If the chain is to slack it can make changes clunky and can even cause missed gears if you have a delicate toe . To much slack can also cause excessive transmission snatch. Properly set up (chain tension ) and well coordinated ( throttle hand and left foot ) your gear changes should be almost be a instinctive thing.
I have had good success with DID and RK
O ring chains but you gotta get the heavy duty ones with thick side plates ...not 125-250cc mx bike chains. A good chain on good sprockets that is cleaned and waxed should last 20,000 miles.
I use water soluable areosol degreaser and a paint brush to clean chain ( on the bike )and when its dry I used Maxxima areosol chain wax ( doesnt fly off ). Remember you are only lubing the chain to sprocket contact and a wee bit on the o rings so you dont have to put heaps on . I liked to clean and lube chain every 1000kms ( 600 miles ). Piece of cake :-)
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