+1 on jcslocum, I experienced exactly this:
http://www.duc.bz/DUCTests_nichols_engine_mou.htm
Indeed too expensive but worth it on my M900 -97.

Warning Warning Pocket Protector Science Content!!!

Sam,

We (you and I) could go on about this forever and enjoy every engineering moment to the max. I'm not sure how much our fellow Paso owners would like it tho :-)

I would like to correct some basic facts tho from your post.

***.15.
0.10 is typical of lubricated metal to metal, but I'm not sure whether that means "lightly oiled" or "slathered with grease". I have no idea what CF loctite has, but I'd bet it's similar to "lubricated".***

Both oil and grease are bad thread lubricants in my opinion.

.10 is the K factor for a good copper based anti sieze. .15 would be for "machine" oil on the threads. An unlubricated dry steel on steel has a friction factor of .40!! In my experience, this is the condition of most bolting done in the aftermarket. Very few mechanics use antisieze and I never see it done by a DIY'er.

I know we are talking about "thread" lubricants but there is MORE friction UNDER the HEAD of the bolt/nut than there is in the threads!! I never see anyone putting antisieze under the head of the bolt or on the face of the nut. In general, 40% of the friction in the bolted joint is in the threads and 50% under the bolt head or the mating surface of the nut. This means that only 10% of the applied force goes to tensioning the bolt!

I don't know if Loctite gives an extact K facor but .15 should be in the ball park.

The shear component is there, I just don't know how much of a factor it plays in the initial install, but over time as things work on each other the frame may flex to the point of using the bolt in shear. The way that the frame is pulled to one side by the chain forces, makes me think that this bolt is placed in shear, even if this wasn't a consideration in the design.

I agree that they are better bolts, much better. I have them in my 900ss and the make a marked difference.

I for one think that I benefit from this discussion, at least I have some grasp of as opposed to the electronic threads haha.

Anyway, I thought that most tork specs are for dry threads, is that right? So, are we over torking if we apply loctite?

And, are you suggesting applying anti-seize to nut faces and bolt underheads?

Thanks,

Kurt

Thanks, Jon, I have the anti-seize handy in the shop and usually apply it to threads, will go for underhead now, too.

Kurt