Any special tips & tricks?
Or just put bike on centerstand and remove it?

I would remove the rear tyre/wheel first, will give you some room to move inside the shock area, but it should be fairly easy to remove.

Just top and bottom pivot bolts I think.

Good luck.

You need to have the frame jacked or suspended so that when you take the bolt out at the top of the shock something is holding it up. I don't think the center stand gives you enough clearance, maybe it will. I removed my rear wheel. I had my shock rebuilt by a factory authorized re-builder in California, USA. I was pleased with the work and it was reasonably priced.
du907

I havent take rear wheel away, but i have put some wood, etc under rear tire to keep suspension in "neutral position". Then nuts/screws are easier to remove... I take same time whole lingage system away to clean it and check if anything bad will be in bearings.....

Fairly straightforward I moved the wheel out as it is a lot easier but............................

Be warned that you may have some fun stripping the various bolts on the linkage arms I am still trying to figure out a siezed bolt that after 3 months of soaking still refuses to budge - looks like its a grind and drill job.

Hi, when I removed my rear shock recently, I left the rear wheel on but put a piece of wood under it to keep it at the same level once I unbolted the shock. The only tricky bit was, getting the remote reservoir past the black plastic under carriage/battery holder with out scratching the frame.

Thx f tips, guys!

Seized bolts like this often come lose after heating with an electrical paintstipper and WD40.
the link system is made of different materials and as the thermal expansion of aluminium is two times the steel one, this heating (maybe repeated several times) can work.
ducbertus