"colonial boy" wanted to know the clearance tire / swingarm in the orginal version (here X 59).
on my 906 paso, the minimal distance between tire and swingarm (front of the rear tire / beginning of the swingarm)
is 25 mm (in the 6'o clock excenter position). My Michelin has a diameter of 585 mm. The D 250 F has a diameter of 615 mm, Bridgest. 620 mm, avon 630 mm and - leaving everything unchanged should lead to minimum front clearance of 10 mm when using the D 250. this is only what I measured with my bike, maybe this is not always this way

ok you mean to the front, not to the sides. I had more than 2,5mm with the Avon.
btw did you ever get in contact with "pasoalf" ? He is also in CH and already has fitted 130/70 & 180/60. So I guess he already dealt with the MFK.

G.

thanks, yes we had contact some time ago. He told me that there are still some problems left and he will come back to this forum with alls infos and plans whenever he solved everything.

thanks for the info

at least her, two dunlops in the size 180 / 60 are availiable (Elite and D 250 F). In one German describtion of all 180 / 60 currently sold here, the D 205 F is the only one that is recommended for "touring bikes", not only custom bikes and choppers. but I am not sure if that means a lot (it is just one scource and mor advertising). I talked to Dunlop regarding the D 205 F and they simply said: "We did not do any testing with that tire and a 906 paso, hence we have not information availiable. In general, these tire is used in the us market for a goldwing 1800"

two points:

- yes you are right, there should be not much side load on the rear sporcket anyway. I think, this is a very good solution

- given your excenter position, I thought there would be more than 10 mm minimum clearance. however, 10 mm should be enough, I heared that 60 km/h will lead to extra 3mm via centrifugal force. Hence, even at maximum speed, I can not think of the tire touching the swingarm. maybe someone can comment on that point with a more profunde knowledge than I have

have a nice day, hardo

p.s. your must be lucky - here we really got snow...it takes two more month till I can ride my nikes again

if a Dunlop at all I`d personally prefer the Elite 3 over the D250 also beause its based on the Sportmax. Just my 2c.

http://www.vw-page.at/pages/trickkiste_ ... echner.php

So with a couple of jobs completed on the motor and the exhaust repaired (at last!), it was time to begin final assembly.

I had acquired a chain guard (missing when I purchased the bike) so worked out how much to move it over. It looked to me that originally the front of the guard would have fitted inboard of the mount, but it was enough to assemble it on the outside of the mount and make a spacer for the guide. Remember I'm looking for 10mm so with the guard 4mm thick I made a 6mm spacer about 25mm in diameter. The sequence is mount, guard, spacer, chain guide. If you plan ahead, stick the spacer to the guard with some contact adhesive, otherwise tape it to a rod to get it in position and use a lot of bad language! You will need a 30mm bolt.


For the rear mount I made another 6mm spacer slightly smaller at 20mm in diameter to go between the mount and the guard - with a nice stainless washer and 25mm dome-head cap-screw:


It was after I'd struggled to get the exhaust on for half an hour that I hit a snag. The left hand centre stand bolt was loose and when I tightened it and lifted the stand up, it hit on the chain!


This came as a shock as there was no problem when I rode the bike, but the loose bolt must have allowed the stand to twist away from the chain. I will have to grind away part of the foot to get some clearance.


I ran out of time to do this so it will be my first job on the project in the next day or so (and it may be a good idea to replace the nylon pad too!). Not a big one to overcome, but another thing to take into account.

If you are intending to do this mod, check your chain to stand clearance before you start, so you know how much to alter the stand.

Hi CB

Just a question: do you think the central stand will in general hit the chain and hence something has to be done or was this only caused by the deferment caused by the lost bolt?

By the way: Giving that excenter position, can you still use the central stand / side stand?

Thanks and all the best, hardo

P.S: I talked to the technical advisiers here in switzerland regarding the conversion and showed them everything I have so far. They told me that they had no problems with this kind of conversion; they would also accept the 150/80 combination, but I will go the 180/60 way.

I managed to spend most of my Sunday on the Paso. First I ground away part of the centre stand foot for some chain clearance.


I wasn't sure if this would be enough. When I offered the stand up to the mounts I found there was quite a bit of side clearance so I added a couple of washers to the inside of the stand:

This was enough to give me 2mm clearance on the chain. I figured when I'm sitting on the bike the chain will be higher so will have more clearance. There will be times when you go over a rise and the weight comes off the bike but I will keep an eye on this area to see if there is any sign of contact.

Next I fitted the front guard. I made up these spacers for the fork brace/guard mount:

They are 12mm diameter and 7mm thick. I used 4 stainless steel dome-head allen screws 6mm x 20mm long. I didn't finally tighten these until I had fitted the axle. I had to file a little out of the curves on the ends of the brace so it would fit up inside the forks where there is no groove for it.
With the Dunlop 130/70/16 fitted there is virtually no clearance on the sidewall inside the mud guard. Thankfully my bike has a mudflap fitted and the speedo cable loop is mounted on that otherwise I couldn't fit it:

With both Dunlops now fitted, I could try the centre stand. By the way, did I mention the battle I had getting those springs back on? More bad language!
The stand worked, but both wheels and the stand all touched the floor together. I reversed the excenter on the rear axle to this position:

With the bike on the stand, the rear tyre just touches but I am able to rotate the wheel so I'll be able to squirt my chain lube on. As for the side stand, this still works and the angle doesn't look too great.
But just so you can work out how much the bike has been raised, with it on the centre stand, I lowered the side stand and measured from the lowest point of the foot to the floor - it was 96mm.
I would add that there was no tank, fairings or seat on the bike. When it is completely assembled, I will remeasure this.

I was hoping to fire her up, but the battery hasn't responded to a charge so looks like I will have to get a new one.

Cheers, CB

Hello CB, Well done, and thanks very much for the update, the 906 world eagerly awaits the final result / test ride!!
As i mentioned earlier in this thread Dunlop D250's have been replaced by the D419 here in England which is aimed at the cruiser fraternity, i am having real trouble comparing the actual sectional size of this tyre with the D250, i saw a clever chart somewhere on this forum which gave you all the answers can somebody point me please? obviously i need to ascertain that the D419 is the same size dimensionally as the D250 given it is the same size on the tyre wall (180/60/16) otherwise i will be back to square one if the tyre profile is different.
One more thing CB, did you ascertain how much wear was on your chain by adjuster position before you started this conversion? ie was the chain virtually new or approx 1/2 life? i just wondered if the latest position of the excentric adjuster would limit the ammount of chain adjustment available and hence the ammount of miles per chain?
I am afraid i am still hovering awaiting the outcome of your exploits before i get into doing it, as i have a virtually unworn pair of original tyres available but i would rather fit new rubber obviously. Shame you are on the other side of the world otherwise i would pop over and give you a hand. Keep up the good work. Cheers Jon