Hi folks. My trusty 907ie was for a while idling irregularly- 800- 3,000 rpm. Then it settled down to 2,000. clearly too high. I cant see how to fix it. Any suggestions would be welcome.

Thanks,

SMSeigel@shaw.ca

First thing you need to do is determine if it is cable,throttle related or another culprit. Take the airbox off so you can view the throttle plates and make sure they close smoothly and all the way

Hi Higgy.

Thanks. I have had the tank off as well as the air box. The air box fits snugly. There appears to be no air leaks to the vacuum system. The air temp and vacuum sensors are physically intact and installed properly, but of course I cannot comment on their inner electronics. The hoses and electricals are all in tact. The cables run freely and the throttle opens and closes easily. The throttle bodies seem to be quite in sync and are fully closed when supposed to be closed.

I have taken a close look at the manual and found that one of the screws that I thought was an idle screw was a syncro-screw for adjusting the cylinders relative to each other- that would explain why it seems to run worse now than when I started. I will attempt to get that back to proper. I also have now found the idle screws, and will see if adjusting them will do the trick. As the idle seems now to be more or less constant, that might do it. Any other ideas?

Thanks
SMS

hi pasophist, I had the same problem many years ago, and it only did it when the motor was hot...this was caused by the rediator hose on the L/H side of motor, as it expands due to high pressure it fouls the accellerator mechanism where the cable is attached, the simple remedy is a few stratigically placed cable ties to keep the hose away from the accallerator cable wheel (whatever you call it) and problem fixed

I`d start w sync since you fiddled w that.
Then fully close the idle air screws if idle RPM still too high.
Then lower idle on left side of TB`s.

Long since engine serviced (shims)?

I agree with both the above suggestions either is a possibility. Start with the sync you can put together a manometer to check it dirt cheap all you really need is a length of tubing and some adapters to screw them into the manifolds. If you have a wire gauge you can do a basic job by measuring the throttle plate gap,it will get you close enough to start. You also need to make sure nothing interferes with the cables or linkages and there operation. There are a few other possibilities but you need to start with the mechanical things first.

Thanks. I will do the sync later today and then close the idle screws. What are the adjustments on the left side of the throttle bodies (Tamborinifan)?

thanks for your help!

Yikes! Fiddled with everything imaginable and then....... found that some...somebody had put the steel clip that keeps the vertical cylinder's crank position sensor electrical connector together on upside down. So it didnt hold the connector together. the ends were just touching so it connected and disconnected randomly with vibration. I swapped it around and reconnected the connector and the bike dropped down to 900 RPM idle right away. throttle up and it falls back right into place. Of course with all of the sync fiddling and stop screw fettling, the thing runs a bit lumpy. So now I'm trying to smooth it out by ear. But the main problem seems to be solved.

I do appreciate all of your input. Another lesson learned.

Cheers-
Sheldon

A bad connection on a Ducati ? You must be kidding



Pasophist, if you poke around at this site Bikeboy.org


you will find everything you need to get a 907 purring like a kitten, eh ,well maybe more like a cranky old fleabag

First thing to check when all of a sudden it starts idling high is does it do it after riding or after warm up. If so check the cooling hose on the left of the frame as it passes by the cold idle mechanism on the left of the throttle bodies. This hose, as it gets older, expands and can rub againist the nut at end of the rod the butterflies are on through the throttle bodies. I used some rather large zip ties side by side installed when the hose is cold to keep it away from rubbing the whole mechanism.
Next, if you adusted the set screw that syncs the throttle bodies you have screwed up. You can actually access the left side idle set screw (there are two, one you can't access without removing the air box) from the front of the motorcycle over the radiator with a xtra long screw driver or long extension with a 7 or 8 mm on the end.
Anyway, check the old FIM site or maybe this site has it archived but FIM did a step by step on how to start from the beginning and set the TPS, then sync the throttle bodies, then balance the idle with the air screws and a turn of the adjustment in the ECU under the seat. If you can't find it let me know, I have it somewhere. I have done all this myself and it's quite involved but can be done. You have to do all the steps in sequence to be successful.
But it works. You'll have to get a vacumn balancer and some extra fuel line so you can run the engine with the gas tank off and out of the way but still hooked up to run.
du907

OK Higgy, call my bluff! From the old FIM site.

Good one

Perhaps G should add it to the documents before its gone forever, seems even bikeboy is having issues remembering back that far

here`s the text from the FIM webiste



G.