What is supposed to be my oil drain plug? I think I know but will ask to be sure. On the right side of the engine by the oil filter on the bottom there is what I would assume would be the drain plug. The thing at the bottom of the engine that I think is the oil drain is not easily removable. The head of it would require for it to be removed with a screw driver. Is that correct? or is this a replacement?

I also see on the very bottom right hand side of the engine there is a 21mm nut that can be removed.

Which one is the drain plug?

Also how do I know when I have enough oil in the engine when I do add it?

Hi,

for such basic questions take a look at the user or service manual.
Just look at p.55 of the US owners manual. It answers all questions.

G.

Sorry! couldn't help myself

OK so I got what I thought was a smart mouth answer to a serious question. So I gave a smart mouth reply saying I dont have a user's manual hoping they would go and look at their manual and see why my question was valid. Well I get a link to a list of documents and clicked it downloaded the manual to prove my point and oops. This is different than the one I have. I have an electronic version of both english and italian that the previous owner emailed me after I bought the bike. plus a few other things he found. My version doesnt even mention a filter (4, fig 27) let alone cleaning it. Mine points to the area where the filter is. When I say filter I mean # 4 in the diagram not the oil filter #5 in the diagram. The version on this site shows the oil drain plug in a different place.

I never bothered to look at the owners manual here because I thought hey why bother I have one already. Something is screwy with mine. Sorry to have bothered with what is now clearly a dumb question.

Not a dumb question, just been asked a zillion times before. Thats why its called a FAQ
There are many here dedicated to providing the best info possible.
It is worth your time to look around.

chasaduc never mind my short replies. Sometimes I just tend to point in the right direction.
I just looked at the multilanguage owners manual and there the picture is on p.103 but the description is on p.100. Very intelligent.
I wonder what manual you have. Can you mail it to me ?

G.

The Allen bolt under the engine is your drain plug, the 21mm hex on the side of the engine is a further filter for large particles, only undo this 'bolt' NOT the smaller flat blade screw underneath it, it is not a locking bolt. Check the sight glass for the oil level and fill up with 2.75ltr to start with and check level after running, half way up the sight glass will be fine. Use a dedicated motorcycle oil such as Silkolene Super 4 10W40, why? Motorcycle Oil has additives for the gearbox that car oil does not have.

Silkolene Super 4 range is a semi synthetic oil suitable for motorcycle engine and transmission ie Unit engines. It is intended for road riding. Synthetic lubricants can be manufactured using chemically modified petroleum components rather than whole crude oil, but can also be synthesized from other raw materials. Simply put, Oil is a ring molecule with a long molecular string attached, a synthetic grade ensures that each molecule length is the same.
http://www.silkolene.com/index.php?call ... &sub=ride#
http://www.whatprice.co.uk/car/synthetic-oil.html
I don't know about the Nickel content of racing oils but I have never heard of Nickel binding to metals via a passive method, it forms an oxide layer much like Aluminium. For that matter I have never heard of Nickel being use for a lubricant, Molybdenum disulphide maybe.
Car engines have a separate gearbox and this requires a different lubricant, considering this there is no need to include specific additives for the transmission. It is possible that some car engines are unit construction these days although I have not heard of any and owners would be directed to a specific oil for this. Currently a separate gearbox will use a Hypoid gear oil that can be a very thick oil, are you telling me that Hypoid EP90 does not exist?
http://www.carlube.co.uk/index.cfm?product=81

Disclaimer- The separate web pages are the work of individual authors and certain claims may be open to interpretation but they probably aren't making it all up.

Claude asked me to upload you this

http://www.box.net/shared/h9fod6nisn

G.

thanks for that G
this is an interesting m/cycle oil article from a '94 bike mag, it's a bit confusing as the pages are the wrong way 3-4-1-2, but you can get the point.

After running the motor in (5000 km) I've always used fully synthetic oil, the other thing I do when I drain the oil is to put the plug back in and put 2-3 litres of diesel in the sump and shake the bike around (side/side and back/forward) and than drain it properly (all the dark oil comes out), then fit new filter and fill with oil, this way the oil stays clean

Just ran across one more here



I currently have Mobil 1 0w-40 in both of my Paso's
Plan to run the same weight but with AMSoil the next time I do an oil change

Both are 40 weight oil by API class exceeding EVERY manufacturer's specification for ANY vehicle
The zero part of 0W-40 means it holds its viscosity thru-out the engines temperature range cold or hot

When it comes to oil and making a choice I tend to go with the appropriate SAE paper and the API info.