When I re-activated my Paso my mechanic was already retired. Therefore I decided to do the necessary work by myself.
Actually I don’t have the necessary equipment to adjust the valves by myself. But at least I checked them to see whether there is something to do. So I gathered all the necessary Infos and Tools to check the valves.
The Result of that you see below.
For those (I guess most of you) which are not fluent in German some translations below
Einlass = intake
Auslass = outlet
Öffner = opener
Schliesser = close
The admissible tolerances you find on my check-sheet below

First of all my general Interpretation is as follows:
-With time the gap of the opener is decreasing
-With time the gap of the closer is increasing
So if you check the gaps which I measured on my 750 my interpretation of the situation is as follows:
Front cylinder opener/outlet: with 0.15 slightly outside tolerance, but as with time the gap decreases no real necessity to change something
Standing cylinder closer intaket: with 0.07 outside tolerance, should probably be adjusted.
I went to a mechanic to ask the question whether there is an urge necessity to do something. I just got the (stupid?) answer that it has to be inside the tolerances, that’s why they put the tolerances.
I just ask myself whether it does any harm to the head/engine if the gaps are a bit (max 0.05) higer?
I’ve heard that on new Ducatis the tolerances are bigger, to decrease the service intervals.
So if any of you guys has experience with valve adjustments please let me know your opinion
pasoalf

Lets not over complicate the process Watch the video


PART 1


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Part 2





Tools required


a good quality set of feeler gauges
small screwdriver..a magnet is helpful


Something to hold the valve in place so you don't drop it into the cylinder

Tools to measure the shims, MICROMETER OR GOOD VERNIER, CLOSERSHIM TOOL Shims

higgy, that was not the question. He has already done that

0,15mm on the exhaust valve is not a problem. 0,07 closing rocker should be 0,02mm. If you don't hear the valves tick when starting it cold, I wouldn't bother. Till next season or approx 5000km's or so..

I guess it depends on your mechanic ( he's probly pissed that he's not going to get to charge you for all that labour ). I measure the clearances and any shims that require adjustment are removed . I wrap a rubber band around valve stem under the closing shim and anchor it to one of the valve cover screws to hold valve in place ( got that Higgy ). I use 600 wet and dry carborundum paper on a flat surface ( piece of glass ) to grind down opening shims and take the closing shims to the mechanic with the measured clearances and ask him to supply the correct shim ( he is happy to swap them for a small fee ). I like to see 4-5 thou on intake openers and 6-7 thou on the exhaust openers the closers .... if I can turn the shim with my fingers they are not to tight and if I can get a 3 thou feeler gauge in there they are to loose . I gotta say before you start panicking about the closers have a real good look at your valve retainer half circle collet things , most of your closer clearance will come from these shitty little things .... much better off with a set of MBP collets ( from Bevel heaven , product ID 876 )

[quote="Derek And remember to block the oil drain hole with a tissue or an earplug or something, or sure as hell if (when) you drop a collet it will go right down there. [/quote]
Yeah me too the 1st time I did the valves. You know if you wanted to flick that collet down that hole it would take you a hundred tries AND ! I gotta say Im pleased to know other cleaver people have done it too