I'm still a ways away from painting the 907 unloved bike that I'm slowly going through but was wondering what everyone uses to strip the paint off the fairings. I haven't figured out exactily what they're made of, either ABS or GRP? I've painted a few bikes in my other lives but they were fiberglass and pretty easy to strip using aviation paint stripper but can't quite figure what the paso's are even though I've searched and gotten nothing definite. Thanks Arch.

Since it is some form of plastic, I tend to not strip the old paint off completely, and paint on top of it. They got the paint to stick for the past 25years, and getting new paint to stick to old paint is much easier than trying to get new paint to stick to some plastic you can't identify. Sand it, surely, but I would not strip it, unless you are re-shaping the parts.

Cheers, Phil

Be careful what lurks beneath ....I had 17 coats of paint from probably at least 5 resprays on my top panel shown below and even more on the other Using paint stripper is okay on the first few coats just don't leave it on for too long and wash down thoroughly when you are finished.
If you have any fibre glass repairs though you may weaken them and have to start afresh.
Why not just 120, 180 then 320 and 400 grit wet and dry flat with a air sander and elbow grease and then primer filler coat and respray?

The panels are made from fibre glass which are they are press moulded with lots of chalk in the resin to act as a bulking agent - press moulded means there are two moulds one for outside plus one for the inside to get the smooth inside surface, not quite as simple to repair as a hand lay up with fibre glass matting but doable, you will need to grind behind the cracks deeper and wider to get good adhesion and maybe lay in some wire to strengthen.

All English stated is true. In the trades it's called SMC, sheet molding compound. Starts as a big fluffy Matt with a bunch of layers. Lovingly laid into a hot tool by hand, and pressed at high pressure. Chalk or talc is commonly used in the outside layers to make it smoother, and hard. Usually some form of thermoset binder. Still used to make doors for large truck such as semis (lorries), and some snowmobile and personal watercraft.

I would be interested to hear what most of you think about the best way to go about repairing our fibreglass panels as there seems to be a few conflicting opinions. I logically thought a lay-up with fresh fibreglass was the answer (and I remember helping repair fibreglass dingies in this manner) but have seen mention of using Araldite in place of fibreglass resin including someone whose in the trade??

I actually used Araldite as a primer base smoothed on like gooey paint and at this point laid in any small strengthening strips (I used stainless steel off a kitchen collander/sieve) then just as it starts to react I lay some mixed resin and then some fine long fibre matting and finally finish with a normal fine finish fibre glass finish compound. Then plenty of wet and dry flatting.

Loads of elbow grease and sweat and a fair amount of time.

Then I found two perfect panels for £70.00 on ebay!!!!!?????

repair depends on the extent of the damage. 2 part epoxy for small issues. Fiberglass mat for large areas that are missing..and everything in between

Does anyone know whether it is epoxy or polyester/vynelester these are made of.
I will be repainting next winter as well as fitting original mirror pods and fairing the side panels into
the main sides and doing away with the four retaining screws,i know this gets away from the original
look of the bike but I think it will look more homoginous let me know what you think.
Also would appreciate if someone can help with a paint colour code as I don't think what is on mine is the
right "RED" .
CHEERS all for all the great info on this forum and to those behind the scenes!

I have used polyester resin and glass matt . and I bought polyester filler as I found that epoxy wouldn't stick worth a dam . My fairing is in poor condition underneath , previous repairs are real bad , and about 30 coats of paint ! . Someone has actually used wire to stitch bits together ,sold new in Japan so who would know

I fixed my side and front fairing (P750) and it`s still fine after 13 years.

G.

I was told by may painter to use "aircraft" stripper.

I have bought this but have yet to use it:

http://www.amazon.com/GAR343-KLEAN-STRI ... B004Y1KX9E

I'm NOT stripping Paso bodywork but F1 bodywork which look like it's more of a hand lay up of fiberglass mat.

Arch,

Before you paint talk to me. I just had my redone this past winter by a guy in Yadkinville. He still has some of the paint he used on mine. He keeps it with my name on it just for me. He did a wonderful job, at a great price. He loves bikes and a week after he finished my bike I let a guy sit on it and the guy scratched the tank with his belt buckle. I took it back to my painter to see about fixing it. He was so disappointed that his work was messed up he fixed it and didn't charge me a dime. You can't tell were he fixed it. He is very talented and right in our back yard.
I ordered the decals from a place in the UK. About $54 as I remember. They supply the decals for old Ducati bikes to the Ducati factory museum. In his words "If they are good enough for Ducati, they will be good enough for you".
The thing to remember too is the factory pieces have clear coat over the decals and only have clear coat on the outside of the pieces, just a painted finish on the underside.

Thanks Byron, been meaning to call but life has gotten in the way for the last couple of weeks so will call this week, do have some questions. Arch.

Be carefull using strippers containing methylene chloride on plastic pieces, ie.oil cooler covers as it will cause them to warp if left too long ,aside from the health aspects which makes it hard to purchase
in many countries.It is probably the most effective product for most surfaces and will even lift powder coat with several applications. J.